Coldwater Peak Feels Wild Within Sight of the Highway

This wasn’t going to be my first time up Coldwater Peak, but a friend at work showed interest in climbing the peak and dogged me throughout the summer for a hike to the venerable site of a now absent fire lookout. When our mutual schedules finally came together on a date, our group swelled from two to seven people including my two boys.

My youngest son Jared hikes up the last switchbacks on Coldwater Peak.

The hike to Coldwater Peak could actually start in two locations. The easiest begins at Johnston Ridge Observatory at the end of Highway 504, 52 miles east of Castle Rock. The second is the South Coldwater trail #230 at mile post 45 along Highway 504. I recommend the Boundary Trail #1 trail from Johnston Ridge over the South Coldwater route. The trail is in much better condition, especially as you enter the more remote areas of South Coldwater Ridge.

Two years ago, when I tried to reach Coldwater Peak from the western route, the trail had washed out in a glacial cirque. In addition, the trail can be difficult to find in a few places. One account I read this summer indicated that confusion led one hiker to go cross country by line of sight. Admittedly, it is tempting as pre-eruption logging roads carve up the landscape and appear to lead the unsuspecting hiker right to the base of the peak. By congressional legislation, the area is reserved for scientific use and by definition, any off-trail travel is against the law and subject to citation.

Mt. Margaret highlights the rugged country around St. Helens Lake.

This hike does require a monument pass (covered by annual and lifetime federal passes) which is purchased at Johnston Ridge. Rangers understand that hikers are often on the trail long before the tourist public, therefore it is considered an “honor system”. Simply explain that your hike started early and then go purchase or present your passes that support the facilities.

The easiest route leaves Johnston Ridge and winds around the Devil’s Elbow. A piece of trail that challenges phobias hikers might have with heights. After turning the corner onto a deposit of hummocks left by the collapse and landslide of Mt. St. Helens in 1980, the hiker climbs to a gentle plateau where the first significant views of Spirit Lake begin.

Kyle takes a break above St. Helens Lake and Mt. Rainier can be seen in the background.

It is from here to the top of a ridge overlooking St. Helens Lake that I consider the most difficult stretch of the hike. There is little to no shade and constant exposure to the sun as you climb near 1,000 vertical feet over a mile. Preparing for sun exposure in the rain forest climate is an important preparation component for any hiker. Once reaching the top of this crest, the trail finds a delicate route along the slender ridgeline and at one point, actually crosses through a natural void in the geology.

The trail finds a natural route through the volcanic dike. The view through the “Arch” includes a look at Mt. Adams, 35 miles to the east.

As our group spread out, some nearly took a wrong turn at the junction of the South Coldwater #230 trail. They couldn’t initially find the needed trail and saw the word “Coldwater” on the sign. They assumed that was the way to go. Due to a large area of compacted soils and wildlife trails that quickly disappear, it is difficult to find Boundary Trail. At the junction, continue straight, veer to the right slightly and the typical worn tread will come into view about 20 yards ahead.

From this point, it is only about another mile to the summit of Coldwater Peak; Half of that distance is gentle topography. At the spur junction. A smaller, less visible trail departs left and switchbacks up the side of the peak. It delivers you to a USGS communications station at an elevation of 5,727 feet and the former site of one of Southwest Washington‘s 33 fire lookouts.

Huckleberry Bushes present a rusty red that contrast the blues of St. Helens Lake. The silver logs in the lake were deposited by the 1980 eruption of Mt. St. Helens.

In all, the out and back hike is slightly more than 13 miles and call me a fool when I asked my group what was the most difficult portion, to a person they all chose the last half mile.

On this day, the weather was perfect. 65 to 75 with a few fluttering clouds here and there. It was the sound in the air that made the trip predictably enjoyable. It was mid-September and the beginning of the elk rut combined with a availability of huckleberries to make the return hike just as enjoyable as the accent. Several bull elk produced annual calls that made you feel like you were in an extra wild place despite being in almost constant view of a state highway.

Lakes Trail Along Coldwater Lake Provides Gentle Topography

There are times, and hopefully many when you have to adjust your hikes to your partner. It is nearly impossible to find a hiking partner with your same physical condition and trail values. Hikes generally fit into three categories for me. There are the short, boring ones, the moderate with modest interest and those that climb to the highest levels with the greatest views. Unfortunately, few of my potential hiking partners have my physical condition and or share my interest of alpine settings.

Geology and Minnie Peak combine for a great landscape diversity along the shores of Coldwater lake.

My dear wife shares my values , but not my physical condition or my longing to reach the highest elevations. To share any trail time with her, I must find trails in either category 1 or 2. There is also the factor of making one feel good about their accomplishments, therefore I chose the higher level.

In my data bas of trails, I found one that fit our mutual needs. The first 5 miles of the “Lakes Trail” is flat, and relatively gentle. It has spectacular scenery and is only about an hour away from the area.

Alders along South Coldwater Ridge provide a nice reflection in the quiet lake water.

The Lakes Trail is actually Trail #211 which ventures into the Mt. Margaret Backcountry of the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument. It refers to the eastern high lakes of Snow, Shovel and Obscurity, but for our purposes, it may as well mean Coldwater Lake itself.

Spud Mountain rises on the west side of the Toutle River Valley with Coldwater Lake in the foreground.

The trail leaves from near the Coldwater Lake boat dock and follows the shore to the east side of the lake where it continues to follow Coldwater Creek into the high country. As you leave what few visitors there are on the developed side of the lake, plan on experiencing the quiet side of wild this fall. While is has been a poor year for huckleberries, the Evergreen genre supplied many moments of natural refreshment with some berries larger than any in my recent memory. Second, the next few weeks will supply natural drama as the area elk populations communicate with bugles that seem so sink into the soul.

Evergreen Huckleberries were both plenty and large along the trail.

Laurie partaking of tasty natural bounty.

One note of caution for any that hike this trail in the next few weeks, is that hunters sometimes use the area for their sport as well. Dressing accordingly is advised. On our recent hike, we saw one hiker and two boats on the lake where it was quiet enough to hold a conversation from shore to boat in a normal tone of voice.

What people need to understand is the concept of perspective. Most have observed Coldwater Lake from the viewpoints, boat docks or the decks of the former Coldwater Ridge Visitor Center but as you head east and view the lake looking west, entire new scenes of Washington scenery present themselves. Spud Mountain looms west of the alder groves, and South Coldwater Ridge seems to grow as the lake shrinks. The water in the fall is clear which is often no the case in the spring or summer.

Laurie crosses one of the most rugged portions of the trail at the base of a massive natural landslide.

At the end of the lake, we came to the junction of the South Coldwater Trail (#230) and followed it 30 yards to a bridge over Coldwater Creek where we appropriately ate lunch.

While this portion of the Lakes Trail is long, there are few opportunities to beat the scenery with a tail that gains little elevation.

Vanson Lake Couldn't Elude us Forever

With temperatures near 90 degrees, hiking 17 miles in the Cascade foothills might seem like a less than reflective choice, but when thought through, it was a pretty good idea. It was the other elements that made our hike to Vanson Lake a fairly uncomfortable experience.

The spur trail to the top of Vanson Ridge featured a nice wildfire garden.

Vanson Lake is a small piece of water in the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument. It is not however, located within the blast zone and three trails converge nearby to make it a central feature in a little known roadless area between the Green River to the south and the Cowlitz to the north.

Mt. Adams could be seen from the top of Vanson Peak. The area in front of Mt. Adams shows signs of the Mt. St. Helens blast zone.

There are several ways to reach Vanson Lake and the trails that form an area of almost complete serenity just south of Taidnaipam Park on the upper end of Riffe Lake. This is an area where you go for peace and solitude. While there is plenty of scenery, especially in the form of cascading creeks and waterfalls, don’t expect to see alpine scenery with picturesque scenes without significant effort.

Vanson Lake is located in a remote location at about 3,800 feet elevation.

That may change if you access the area from the Green River area where the Green River and Goat Mountain Trail junctions with the Goat Creek Trail. The routes out of the Green River Valley are on sout facing slopes in the Mt. St. Helens blast zone and would have been a miserable experience on this day. As it was, my 10 year old son and I hiked in the deep, cool, shaded woods alongside creeks that forced us to cross them on occasion; Sometimes in refreshing, bare feet.

My 10 year old son Jared crosses one of the many creeks along the trail to Vanson Lake.

To get there, turn onto Kosmos Road between Morton and Glenoma and follow the signs to Taidnapam Park. Cross the bridge over the Cowlitz River and turn right. Continue through an open gate (during fire season, this gate is often closed to protect private lands despite blocking access to public lands) and go for another mile or so, ignoring a couple of minor roads to the left. You will come to a three-way fork in the road, the one to the right is the main road while the middle fork is gated. Take the farthest turn to the left. This is now USFS road #2750. The Forest Service has placed a sign to clearly mark the way to the trailhead this summer. Drive for 4.5 miles to the trailhead.

Cascading streams are a common sight along the Goat Creek Trail.

For the first 4 miles, the trail follows tributaries of Goat Creek. This late in the summer, water levels are light as creeks tumble over impressive falls. At just under 4,000 feet, we ran into surprisingly large patches of snow, and more impacting, the swarms of bugs that can usually be associated with the woods shortly after snow melt. From some beautiful meadows, we started climbing again to the top of Vanson Ridge where an important junction of trails occurs.

By taking the USFS Road #25 south out of Randle (Hwy 131) and then taking USFS Road #26, to Ryan Lake and the Green River Horse Camp, several trails lead from USFS Road #2612 up Goat Mountain to Tumwater Mountain, Deadmans Lake and of course Vanson lake.

The trip from either location is a long day hike. I would suggest staying at least one night out to make the hike worthwhile.

As for us, the bugs really took away from our experience. Above 3,500 feet, stopping to enjoy scenery, crossing streams or taking a dip into Vanson Lake made for a miserable existence. Of course, that is the nature of dry, hot weather and hiking. While we hoofed what amounted to 17 miles on the hottest day of the year, we barely even noticed the heat in the deeply wooded canyon but we were very careful to drink an incredible amount of water to stay hydrated. A few early season huckleberries, blueberries and salmonberries supplemented what little lunch we ate at the lake.

Haze and smoke prevented a clear view of Mt. Rainier from the top of Vanson Ridge.

As a final insult, we hiked to the point of Vanson Peak at about 4,900 feet elevation. From there, views of Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier, Riffe Lake and the northern end of the Mount St. Helens blast zone greeted us. The haze and smoke made the entire region almost unrecognizable. Despite almost miserable conditions, you couldn’t help but feel good about the experience as a whole. The fact that we live in a region with such vast playgrounds readily available should make us all beam with pride!