Showing posts with label Mt. St. Helens. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mt. St. Helens. Show all posts

Monday, November 24, 2008

National Park Service at Mount St. Helens Would be Best

The debate continues to rage in three counties most impacted by our neighborhood volcano. Should the Volcanic Monument continue to be managed by the U.S. Forest Service, or would administration by the National Park Service make any marked difference for the visitors and more importantly, our local economies.

I come at the question from a unique perspective that has fallen on deaf local ears thus far. I have worked 11 summers with the National Park Service. I understand the management culture, and the mindset of the employees themselves. It is an organization that is extremely bureaucratic, but from top to bottom, the service works for the same mission.


Some more photos will be included as time is available... Minnie Peak and Coldwater Peak is classic world class scenery especially in the winter.

In 2004, I came to work for the Forest Service at Coldwater Ridge Visitor Center and Johnston Ridge Observatory at Mount St. Helens. For more than three years, I worked as part of a supervisory team that covered the Monument on the north side of the volcano. Our philosophy was to treat visitors with a very Park Service-like model. It was very successful and despite the Forest Service uniforms, our visitors assumed that Mount St. Helens was a National Park. Like myself, most of our employees had worked in the National Park Service culture and embraced its values.

The problem at Mount St. Helens is that there is a disconnect between the staff on the ground in front of visitors and those that administer the monument from the national and regional level. The Forest Service is torn between its mission of multiple use and this Monument does not fit the standard operating procedure including funding at national, regional and finally district levels as opposed to line item allocations for each property.



The main question should be what will the National Park do for me? It has been well established that the two agencies are heading in different directions (at least under the Bush Administration). While the Forest Service has been cut year after year, to the point of near irrelevancy, the National Park Service actually saw its budget grow this year.

Assuming all or a portion of the Monument became a National Park Service property, and it received its full funding for a resource with its size and visitation, it might be compared to Lassen National Volcanic Park in Northern California. The budget at Lassen was about $4.5 million while St. Helens featured a frugal expenditure of $500,000. During a 2005 study by the National Parks and Conservation Association, Lassen Volcanic’s budget contributed 362 jobs (Part- and fulltime including NPS employees) that generated $11,523,000 of local personal income and brought in $16,436,000 of spending by visitors from outside local areas on lodging, food, transportation, souvenirs, etc. around the park. I might add that Lassen is in a far more remote location, away from major highways and population centers than Mt. St. Helens.

Getting to Coldwater Lake was almost impossibe during the winter of 2006-07 because the Washington Department of Transportation chose to not maintain Highway 504 past MP35.

The National Park Service is a brand name, an icon that is a draw to its own. Surveys in the 1980s found that the goals of many world travelers included “meeting a park ranger”. The U.S. National Park Service is one of the most respected agencies world-wide.

The NPS may also bring with it “exclusive jurisdiction” that would end bizarre cooperation agreements with local agencies as well as the Washington Department of Transportation. The latter is responsible for the management of Highway 504 as well as the closure thereof. Beyond its closed gates, hikers, skiers and those on snow shoes are not allowed to use the route for recreation during the winter for liability reasons. The road from Coldwater Lake to Johnston Ridge has been closed to any recreational use. The Forest Service had a very difficult time keeping access open to recreational areas on the south side of the mountain during the winter of 2006-07. Lack of access goes against the culture of the Forest Service let alone the Park Service. Of course this may be a moot point based on the fact the NPS would probably keep Johnston Ridge open through the winter. One only has to look at Paradise at Mt. Rainier or the Steel Center and Rim Village at Crater Lake National Park to see the effort presented to keep winter ecological stories available to the public.



I also believe that with the additional budget and management would see the value of reopening Coldwater Ridge Visitor Center. The resource at Coldwater Ridge tells its own stories about the recovery of the landscape after the eruption of Mount St. Helens in 1980. It is a totally different ecological location than the more popular center at Johnston Ridge. The National Park Service understands the value of interpreting differing landscapes even if the majority of the public doesn’t always see that same significance.

Coldwater Ridge Visitor Center was kept open all winter as weather would allow. The public is very interested in the winter ecological story in the blast zone.

Putting trained Park Rangers in front of the public is a high priority for the Park Service. Where the Forest Service systematically cut the number of rangers at places like Ape Cave, Windy Ridge and the visitor centers and attempted to replace them with volunteers over the last three years, The NPS culture places a priority of highly trained and skilled rangers with excellent customer service skills.

Finally, the NPS, would not tolerate the condition of the trails in the Mt. Margaret Backcountry or the roads around the Monument. One of the most special wilderness areas in Southwest Washington is now all but unusable due to lack of access. With both the USFS 26 and 99 roads washed out and trails falling off the side of ridges from lack of maintenance, the Margaret Country went almost unvisited during the summer of 2008. Roads around St. Helens that were damaged during the storms of 2006 are just getting reopened, but The National Park Service worked at breakneck speeds to repair damage at Mt. Rainier. They secured nearly $30 million in emergency funds and were genuinely embarrassed that they had to shut down the park or even parts of it for any length of time.



If all or a portion of the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument were transferred to the management of the National Park Service, the culture would change at both the Monument and in the communities around the mountain. Those who use national parks as playgrounds will have new life at Mt. St. Helens with modest improvement in the physical plant, and a more friendly upper management. The only problem local communities would have is how to compete with area major metropolitan areas for residual dollars.

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Lakes Trail Along Coldwater Lake Provides Gentle Topography

There are times, and hopefully many when you have to adjust your hikes to your partner. It is nearly impossible to find a hiking partner with your same physical condition and trail values. Hikes generally fit into three categories for me. There are the short, boring ones, the moderate with modest interest and those that climb to the highest levels with the greatest views. Unfortunately, few of my potential hiking partners have my physical condition and or share my interest of alpine settings.

Geology and Minnie Peak combine for a great landscape diversity along the shores of Coldwater lake.

My dear wife shares my values , but not my physical condition or my longing to reach the highest elevations. To share any trail time with her, I must find trails in either category 1 or 2. There is also the factor of making one feel good about their accomplishments, therefore I chose the higher level.

In my data bas of trails, I found one that fit our mutual needs. The first 5 miles of the “Lakes Trail” is flat, and relatively gentle. It has spectacular scenery and is only about an hour away from the area.

Alders along South Coldwater Ridge provide a nice reflection in the quiet lake water.

The Lakes Trail is actually Trail #211 which ventures into the Mt. Margaret Backcountry of the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument. It refers to the eastern high lakes of Snow, Shovel and Obscurity, but for our purposes, it may as well mean Coldwater Lake itself.

Spud Mountain rises on the west side of the Toutle River Valley with Coldwater Lake in the foreground.

The trail leaves from near the Coldwater Lake boat dock and follows the shore to the east side of the lake where it continues to follow Coldwater Creek into the high country. As you leave what few visitors there are on the developed side of the lake, plan on experiencing the quiet side of wild this fall. While is has been a poor year for huckleberries, the Evergreen genre supplied many moments of natural refreshment with some berries larger than any in my recent memory. Second, the next few weeks will supply natural drama as the area elk populations communicate with bugles that seem so sink into the soul.

Evergreen Huckleberries were both plenty and large along the trail.

Laurie partaking of tasty natural bounty.

One note of caution for any that hike this trail in the next few weeks, is that hunters sometimes use the area for their sport as well. Dressing accordingly is advised. On our recent hike, we saw one hiker and two boats on the lake where it was quiet enough to hold a conversation from shore to boat in a normal tone of voice.

What people need to understand is the concept of perspective. Most have observed Coldwater Lake from the viewpoints, boat docks or the decks of the former Coldwater Ridge Visitor Center but as you head east and view the lake looking west, entire new scenes of Washington scenery present themselves. Spud Mountain looms west of the alder groves, and South Coldwater Ridge seems to grow as the lake shrinks. The water in the fall is clear which is often no the case in the spring or summer.

Laurie crosses one of the most rugged portions of the trail at the base of a massive natural landslide.

At the end of the lake, we came to the junction of the South Coldwater Trail (#230) and followed it 30 yards to a bridge over Coldwater Creek where we appropriately ate lunch.

While this portion of the Lakes Trail is long, there are few opportunities to beat the scenery with a tail that gains little elevation.

Saturday, May 10, 2008

My History-The 2006 Mount St. Helens Elk Die-off

This is a blog post from April 11th, 2006 as I discovered dead elk in the Toutle River Canyon in the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument. Wildlife managers discovered this week that there was a large mortality rate among the elk this winter.
_____________________________________________________________________________________

My efforts over the last few weeks were put to a bit of a litmus test yesterday. I am aware of two large winter-killed bulls just lying next to the rivers within the monument. If they still had their horns, we will have had some success avoiding the total lawless invasion that it feels like the monument has endured this past few weeks. Prepared to photo document horns cut cleanly with a hacksaw, I hiked out into the backcountry.



What I found was that both bulls still had their adornments. A little respect left them even in their demise.
 
eXTReMe Tracker