Jack of All Trades, Master of Nothing

Fireweed has Supplied More than Color for Centuries of Civilizations

2011-07-31T19:55:00.000-07:00

This is a strange time of the year; Believe it or not, spring is long past and it is fully going on late-summer. Most plants have already presented their glitzy blooms and have gone to seed. There are a number of plants that find it more advantageous to wait until late summer when the competition is not quite so fierce.

Photo by GAP Photo, Winlock, Washington

Fireweed (Epilobium angustifolium) is a good example of a mid-to late summer bloom that runs from noticeable to extravagant shows of blooming color. Fireweed is adapted to grow in locations that have been disturbed. Locally these changes come by way of harvest or development, although landslides and fires could fit into that category too. Fireweed drops its seed in the late summer where it is viable for many years. Once the competition grows up around it and starts to impede on the direct sunlight it needs, it begins to recede from the local plant community.

Photo by GAP Photo, Winlock, Washington

Fireweed grows all over the world and cultures have used it in variety of different ways. Native Americans used the young shoots as part of a salad. They were also able to cook the roots after scraping the exterior. In Russia, a tea made from the leaves of Fireweed known as “Kapor” was exported to other locations throughout the world. In Alaska, the plant is used in candles, syrups, jelly, ales and even ice cream by native populations and savants. Fireweed also produces a distinctive and highly sought-after honey.

The colorful displays of Fireweed along Western Washington’s roads mean more than just a display of late summer blooms. The showy plants have meant a lot more then color and beauty to centuries of civilations.

Blue Camas and Beautiful Evening Light

2010-05-15T08:47:00.000-07:00

A field of Blue Camas near Oakville, Washington.

Anyone that knows the near-death experience of Lewis and Clark in the Bitterroot Mountains of Montana will also enjoy the scenes in the glacial till areas of Western Washington this week. The blooming Blue Camas is creating carpets of flowers awakening in the warmth of spring.

Blue Camas (photo by GAP Photo)

Lewis and Clark first tasted Camas bulbs after a difficult and hungry passage over the Bitterroot Mountains. Upon their descent into what is now Northern Idaho, they were met by members of the Nez Perce tribe who gave them a meal that included Camas root. The natives dug a deep pit and lined it with split wood. This was to merely heat the rocks in the earthen oven. Once the fire was extinguished, Blue Camas roots were placed between layers of grass and on the hot rocks to cook for two days. The roots were made into bread-like cakes that could be preserved through the winter.

Covell Creek Waterfall is no Secret

2010-04-21T18:11:00.000-07:00

An impressive waterfall up Covell Creek just a mile from paved roads is easily accessible by foot. In fact, hikers actually have the opportunity to hike underneath it on their way to Burley Mountain .

Covell Creek Falls, Lewis County, Washington

To reach the waterfall take Highway 12 to Randle and turn south on WA 131 towards Mount St. Helens . About one mile south of Randle, take the left hand fork that travels up the Cispus River Valley . Follow the signs to the Cispus Learning Center and drive about 50 meters beyond the main entrance of the camp. There is a small pull-out on the right and directly across the road is the Covell Creek Trail.

Many early spring blooms graced the trail leading up to the falls. Here, a trillium calls the forest floor home.

The trail starts out gently through the mature one-hundred year old forest that was created after the great Cispus burns of 1902 and 1919. Stay of the left side of the creek, but don’t be tempted by any of the well-maintained trails turn to the left return you to the Cispus Center . A poorly maintained but well-used one hundred yard portion of the trail will drop you off on what appears to be an old road. Veer to the right and the creek will stay within sound and sight all the way to the 60 foot waterfall. It the meantime, you will be dazzled by several smaller waterfalls along the scenic little creek.

Smaller falls dot the terrain below the main falls of Covell Creek.

The trail is actually a small loop, but a blown out bridge near the start makes the first crossing a little “unofficial”.

The waterfall is hardly a secret due to the generations of Western Washington kids that have attended the various kind of camps at the Cispus Learning Center . It is worth a visit whether you have been there before or not.

GAP Photo

Bigleaf Maple Blossom

2010-04-21T12:58:00.000-07:00

One could not help but notice the appearance of the Bigleaf Maple blossom this week in the area. Clusters of fragrant yellowish blossoms between four and six inches long hang from limbs. The Bigleaf Maple depends heavily on insects so the blossoms are heavily laden with pollen and nectar. When the sun comes out, the blooms will be teeming with various kinds of insects.

What are those White Flowers?

2010-04-21T12:55:00.000-07:00

Dogwood blooms on a tree at McMurphy Park in Vader.

Driving around the area this week, residents could not help but notice the explosion of white blooms on everything from shrubs to full grown deciduous trees and they had to ask, what are those white flowers?
There are actually two answers. The most known of the two is the Pacific Dogwood. Small flowers congregate in dynamic groups and present what appears to be large elongated blooms on the outer and upper limbs of the tree. As spring breezes blow, some might look outside and swear it was snowing as the pedals of the flowers drop daintily to the ground below.

Close-up of a Dogwood bloom.

The Dogwood is unique among the Western Washington hardwoods that grow among the big Douglas fir, Western cedar and Sitka spruce. It can carry out maximum photosynthesis under one-third of the needed sunlight.

A bloom on a Servicebery bush in Winlock.

In second place in the blooming competition this week is the Serviceberry. It is considered a bush but can grow from a few feet upwards to 20 feet tall. It has smaller clusters of blooms than the Dogwood and the pedals of the pure white flowers are slender as opposed to the more rounded counterparts of the Dogwood.
Serviceberry is well known as a supplier of good, edible berries for Native American peoples as well as today. Pioneers without modern day earth moving equipment used the Serviceberry as a calendar. It is said that in colder climates, the emergence of the leaves coincided with the thawing of the ground. Hence, burial “services” could be held for those that passed during the winter.

Bats Coming Out to Collect Insects

2010-04-17T19:50:00.000-07:00

Two days in a row last week, students were treated to the spectacle of a bat roosting above the doorway at Toledo Elementary School. Both days, the bats were captured and released unharmed in the woods away from the school. On Tuesday, I took the second to the old growth forest at Lewis & Clark State Park.

As it turns out, bats are just beginning to emerge from hibernation to begin their annual harvest of buzzing insects.

We have all seen the little bird-like mammal twisting, turning and contorting in the sky at dusk capturing insects within the membranes of their wings. Most people don’t realize that roosting bats are also hunting unwary insects that come near.

It is also no secret, despite their bad reputation, bats are an important part of the overall ecosystem. Each bat it is estimated, eats it own weight in insects every day. That is a lot less mosquitoes.

In all Washington State hosts about 15 species of bats. Most eat insects from the air, but some are able to hunt prey like crickets and scorpions right on the ground or in trees.

Keep an Eye out for Early Spring Season Growth

2010-04-05T18:11:00.000-07:00

A unique black & white look up the trunk of an old growth Douglas fir at Lewis & Clark State Park in Lewis County. GAP Photo

The clock keeps ticking and many plants are taking advantage of the slightly warmer days and additional minutes of sunlight. Leaves are burgeoning and a few plants are starting their early blooms. With the Osoberry past its flowering stage and developing berries, several deep wood plants are flowering even though many most plants are weeks away from their colorful spring zenith.

Deer Fern grows intermingled with moss on the north facing side of a Douglas fir. GAP Photo

While strolling through the old growth stand of cedar and Douglas fir at Lewis & Clark State Park near Toledo this week, it was apparent that four plants were showing subtle to dramatic blooms even in the dreary conditions that we’ve endured in recent weeks.

Rubus spectabilis or Salmonberry blooms dot the forst floor. The plant is a member of the Rose family. GAP Photo

The most notable was the Salmonberry with its dainty little rose-like blooms high above your head as you navigate the wet, puddle-ridden trails within the park. Within a couple of months, this diminutive flora will produce one of the tastiest early summer berries in the deep Western Washington woods.

The trillium and bleeding heart are also giving subtle color to the forest floor. The magnificent trillium decorates it large leaf structure while the bleeding heart places and exclamation mark on a delicate fern-like plant.

Finally, a Red Flowering Currant grew on the south facing stump near the trailhead of the old growth trail. The blooms, were well behind it relatives growing in a more suitable, location like south facing canyon or road cut but it was striking and a surprise within the deep forest.

Above-A rain-soaked Trillium populates the forest floor while a lone Red Flowering Currant was observed on the south face of a stump. GAP Photo

Lewis & Clark State Park is one of the few local areas where one can observe many of the northwest’s more minute native plants in their preserved habitat.

Parting Shot

Woodwork and big wood at Lewis & Clark State Park. A massive Douglas fir sits just adjacant to a viewing deck along the Jackson Highway that overlooks a wetland area within the park. GAP Photo

Young Athletes Learn About Track & Field

2010-03-31T19:33:00.000-07:00

Note...My newspaper editor is not publishing a lot of my stories these days, so this is the place where they will appear!

Just as sure as the flowers bloom, young athletes step onto the track or onto the field of athletic competition for the first time in local high school meets.

Toledo Sophomore Yaya Crocker traveled all the way to Ilwaco for her first track & field meet. “My big fear was what do I do?” laughed Crocker. “Am I own my own or do I have to do this all by myself?”

As soon as she got off the bus, those concerns drifted away. “I had a couple of friends doing the same events so I just followed them”, continued Crocker.

For a rookie, she had quite a day. Crocker threw the shot put 21”9” and the discus, her specialty, 69’6”. She also placed 3rd overall in the 200 meters and ran 15.57 in the 100 meters.

“The discus is my main event. That is what I am going to focus on” continued Crocker. As for the running events, she competes in those to “get back into shape”.

Toledo Head Track Coach Rene Ketchum encourages new athletes in track and field to sample the goods. “Try a lot of events. You don’t know what you are good at until you try it”.

Ketchum also noted other new Toledo competitors that had excellent days in Ilwaco. She was very impressed with the performances of Sophomore Gibb Freece and Freshman Mikhail Hopf who placed 2nd in the Two Mile.

In the meantime, Crocker will continue to learn the craft of discus and shot while getting into shape on the track.

Brothers With Bats

2010-03-31T19:29:00.000-07:00

Outside the rain was driving, but inside Winlock Baseball Coach Brian Demarest instructed his 2010 Cardinal Baseball team on signs; Their communication on the field. “There will be a test on these tomorrow at practice. If we miss them, we will run” he says vehemently.

You would think he wouldn’t’ have much to worry about with a solid core of players that have played ball together since t-ball, but rookies sprinkle in among the older guys and there are challenges.

It is “those guys” that sooth Coach Demerast when asked his goals for the season. “I’d like to see improvement at least; 500 (winning percentage) is a good goal” speculated the coach about a team that won two games last season. Winlock’s reputation for winning has been replaced by a collective positive personality, attitude and humor. “I hate losing, but these guys make it easier,” Demarest smiled.

Coach Brian Demarest enjoys a light moment during a game at Napavine

“Our defense and pitching will be better,” continued the coach. Junior Travis McCarthy, Seniors Nick and Matt Hoven are potential first or second teamers at the league level while 6’5” Junior Collin Kupers will take over catching duties and easily ranks as one of the tallest catchers in the district.

Demarest also believes Junior Kyle Archer will have a great year as well.

Senior Mike Raupp will be moving from catcher to infield to get him ready for the community college level where he hopes to play ball next year.

Raupp recalled one incident that shows why he’s pleased to move from behind home plate. He described a serious collision with now Senior Buddy Smerek. “He plowed me over,” laughed Raupp.

Raupp will tighten up an infield that includes the diminutive Hoven twins Matt and Nick. They are fleet of foot and solid with the glove. In addition, they keep the mood light around the team.

It doesn’t take much to realize that this is a close group of young men that lead each other. Even though Smerek is occasionally confused as a coach by outsiders, he insists that leadership comes from many different directions on the team. “It (leadership) changes from game to game depending on the circumstance” says Smerek. “No one is above anybody until the game is over”.

Senior Nick Hoven recalled last year’s trip to Forks that included rain and hail as one of the memories he will have of Winlock Baseball. For these brothers with bats, memories of a senior season that includes a playoff run will make their narrative collection priceless.

Think Twice Before Planting More Holly in the Northwest

2010-03-13T12:34:00.000-08:00

Area residents thinking about adding some form of Holly to your domestic garden display this year should consider it very carefully.

English Holly is an attractive plant at first introduction, but it wears away it welcome over time.

While the several types of Holly that are in the local area are not listed as an invasive species, it creates headaches for homeowners and heartaches for forest managers watching over the northwest’s’ most pristine forests.

It should be noted the English Holly and several other related species are not considered noxious weeds in Washington State. Most counties west of the Cascades, however, recommend their control and discourage planting.

Holly has more than a few positive attributes. Many people love the beautiful berries and the fact that it is an evergreen that lends color even during the drab winter grayness.

The berries of the European Holly are very attractive, but birds take them to other locations where they spread the plant from its intended domestic habitat.

It is those berries though that leads to a much wider problem. Birds eat the fruit and then completely process it in its natural habitat. (Translation...the bird poops it from the limb of a tree after acids make the seed viable). Holly is extremely adaptable. It can grow slowly in the darkness of a thick reproduction forest or at the base of a 400 year old cedar deep in a wilderness area.

Holly grows will in direct sunlight, but can also survive in the darkness of an unthinned reproduction forest like this example.

The latter is a problem for managers at places like Mt. Rainier and Olympic National Parks. Holly has been found in some of the most remote forests in Washington State.
The spiky, waxy leaves protect the tree from any natural predators so the it is left unfettered to grow where it takes root.

Residents that have Holly in their yard gain a fuming disdain for the tree over time as they try to manage it. Clipping one limb leads to the growth of many more in the same location. What should be a stately tree of holiday lore becomes an impenetrable bush of spiny leaves. The holiday romance of holly eventually disappears.

These residents have attempted to trim the base of their holly tree, only to find out that it sprouts back exponentially.

Removing Holly is a seemingly insurmountable task. Cutting the tree down will result in sprouts around the base. Pulling a small tree in moist soil may work eventually, but roots and debris left in or on the ground will surly sprout to form. Control may be achieved through an annual visit to pull the remaining parts of the plant. A larger tree will need the use of a pesticide after cutting. Applying herbicide freshly cut stump or a frilling method is most effective. Foliar herbicide treatment is not very effective due to the thick, waxy leaves. If you want to remove your holly trees with an herbicide, contact your local noxious weed control board for more information on the best methods.

We have learned from our mistakes and now its time to stop making them. While Holly has its own beauties and folklore, it has worn out its welcome here in the northwest. Gardeners should look for more environmentally responsible alternatives before adding more holly to our neighborhoods and yards. This is a tree that knows no boundaries and humans inflict little damage to the spread of this increasingly noxious plant.

Photos courtesty of GAP Photo

Early Season Flowers Display Subtle Show

2010-03-09T19:41:00.000-08:00

The dainty blooms of the Indian plum or Osoberry decorate the roads and transition zones of Western Washington forests.

The first flowers of the new season have arrived. Intermingled with the flowering cherry trees are some of the earliest native blooms. Osoberry or Indian plum, resemble a willow to the casual eye, but is actually part of the rose family. Small, distinctive blooms hang under new leaves that give new life to a rather drab, late winter scene.

These plants are most prominent in the shade, but are most visible along the local roadsides and fence lines in exposed sunshine.

The Osoberry can be upwards to 15 to 20 feet tall like this specimen east of Toledo, Washington.

Native Americans found value in the bark by producing a tea while chewed twigs served as a mild anesthetic when applied to a boo boo. In some cases, twigs were also considered an aphrodisiac.

Humans ate the fruit despite its bitterness, but birds, rodents, deer, bear, foxes and coyotes find the resultant berries an important part of their early season diet.

Never the Same at the Coast

2009-09-14T14:26:00.000-07:00

At every National park, the Rangers talk about change. Largely, change on a geological or glacial scale, but on the coast it is literally different every day.

This photo was taken back in July. It was a quiet day on Rialto Beach features birds feeding in the surf and waves dropping from heights of just a couple of feet.

Take my daily patrols and programs on Rialto Beach. The texture of the beach is in flux from hour to hour and tide to tide. In the late afternoon, my feet will be sinking into small diameter cobbles or fine grain sand, turning my ankles and making me work for every step. The next morning I will be cruising on compact sand making double the time it took me the previous afternoon. Hundreds of tons of material moved every six and a half hours.

Sea foam, consisting of algae, plankton and gaseous mixtures (perhaps "emulsions" would be a good word) made the beach almost a winter scene on Friday.

There is also the surf. Without weather systems to excite the it, it generally stays unexcitable. Every now and then, a six foot surf will replace the normally 2 to 4 foot surf. Some days it seems, I have more energy than the Northeast Pacific.

Then there is the weather. It has been extraordinarily dry this summer by Olympic Coast standards, but I also discovered a line when to expect fog. When the temperature rises to about 78 inland, the fog rolls onshore. For a guy that hates heat, this summer has been heaven.

If you are looking for the small things, you are always rewarded at this beach.

On Friday September 11th, I arrived and found that one, the temperature on the beach was near 80 degrees. It was clear and crisp and the surf was a nutty 8 to 12 feet (wave heights) on the shore. A four foot tide line now became a seven foot tide line. High pressure in the Pacific Northwest and a deep low pressure center in the Gulf of Alaska caused a deep pressure gradient and heavy winds well off-shore. It was enough to make our corner of the ocean very active. There was no beach and backpackers were flocking to use the beach as their personal walk way into the North Coast Wilderness. I am quick to compliment our backpackers on their intelligence, but on this day, their common sense reached a limit.

Logs and driftwood up to 24 inches in diameter were being tossed about like Lincoln Logs and gathered speed up to 20 miles per hour. One lady suffered a fracture on Second Beach and had to be wheeled out on a liter.

I checked in with the area ranger that assured me that he had never observed these kinds of conditions during the summer.

"We have them all the time in the winter, but there are no people around".

As I traversed the route behind the driftwood to survey safety, I found a mom and dad heading out with a baby to camp overnight. I showed them the easiest route possible that included three locations where you out ran waves and then crossed Ellen Creek three times on a rather inconvenient mass of logs. Once in the backcountry I checked on all the packers and their locations relative to the surf.

The arch at Second Beach demonstrates the excitement of the surf even on Sunday after it had calmed down a bit.

On Sunday morning, the beach had returned from the wrath of the angry surf. It was not normal, but on its way. On the north end of the beach was a Stellar Sea Lion hauling out (resting). As I talked to a couple of guys that had discovered it as well. We debated its health and concluded that it was just exausted from facing the powerful currents and surf.

a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_7b0Tw-9HkN4/Sq7EasvthiI/AAAAAAAAOyM/mzxCdUMbUzo/s1600-h/Surfbirds+036.JPG">

"I wouldn't want to go back out there" quipped one of the visitors.

a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_7b0Tw-9HkN4/Sq7IGgeL5FI/AAAAAAAAOy0/06feOZHHVNI/s1600-h/Surfbirds+043.JPG"> The sea lion studied the surf and decided better of it. She simply curled up next to a piece of driftwood to rest.

The potentially other unrelated problem that jumped out, was that Surf Scoters (Sea-Ducks) were coming ashore and presenting a sad show of nature's sometimes cruel reality. Something was making them sick and many were dying on the beach. Again, most visitors to a National Park take events like this in stride, remembering that human assistance here is unquestionably not allowed. I could tell in their eyes though that each visitor was wry in the back of their mind, hoping that this wasn't something humans had done to directly or indirectly effect the population of Scoters. Until we know more it just has to be taken at face value.

Surf Scoters, small sea-ducks gathered together on shore at 2nd beach on Sunday afternoon.

A male (left) and female (right) Surf Scoter.

The current explanation is that the ducks have been eating shellfish that had gathered a toxic algae bloom and weakened them to stressful levels. Tests are being conducted in a Wisconsin lab and should be available later this week. The true hope is that it is not at fault of humans and that it is something that is truly out of our hands.

Gulls picked at the remains of Scoters on Second Beach on Sunday.

When you talk of warmer waters and currents moving and causing life to live in places that it has never been, can you really rule out human influence?

Hiking the High Divide in the Olympics has its Rewards

2009-08-05T09:15:00.000-07:00

The Seven Lakes Basin of Olympic National park is a very popular hike due to its beauty and procimity to roads. A 22 mile loop offers varied scenery for every pallet.

Just saying the words "Seven Lakes Basin" in the northwest is a significant spark in a conversation among hikers and backcountry enthusiasts. In the Olympic National Park Wilderness, it ranks as one of the most popular destinations. Part of its popularity has a lot to do with its proximity to the Sul Doc Campground, Resort and falls that draw a world-wide visitation. As we experienced, there is a constant line of day hikers that were headed to either Deer Lake or for the more hearty, Lunch Lake within the aforementioned basin.

The last few steps toward Heart Lake in Sol Duc Park were difficult on the hottest day of 2009.

The cool waters of Heart lake were a welcome sight.

Planning a trip to the basin can be complicated due to its popularity. Campsites in the area are available on a reservation basis and locations like Heart Lake are very difficult to obtain a site any day during the summer. You can call the Wilderness Information Center and reserve your backcountry site up to 30 days in advance, but until Olympic National Park becomes more in tune with actually happens on the ground, there is some flexibility. As someone who writes permits, I found that the crowded conditions on computer did not equal actual use in the backcountry. In what I thought would be a small city each night, turned out to be a total of about two dozen hikers over three days.

Mt. Appleton is the first of many ridges on the 22 mile scenic loop.

My hiking parter was my experienced but pint-sized 11 year old carrying a larger and larger pack each summer.

My other planning conunendrum included not working my 11 year old too hard on any given day. I wanted to keep him to less than six miles a day with a full pack. After I got off work in Forks on Tuesday evening at 4:00pm, we drove the hour to the end of Sol Duc Road, donned our packs and began the unknown (maps are very vague regarding specific distances to the ONP campsites) distance to our 4th campsite up the Sol Duc River. As it turns out, it was nearly five miles up stream which cut the journey the next day to only four miles.

The obligatory photo of an endless number of falls along the Sol Duc, Ridge Creek and later Canyon Creek.

Our first campsite was in the deep wood among magnificent Douglas firs and Western hemlock. It was also the first and only location where a campfire ( tough pill to swallow for an 11 year old but true backpackers understand why) was allowed. We roasted marshmellows after eating dinner in the near dark conditions of the deep-woods.

The first seven miles featured a dark, cool walk in the forest along the Sol Duc River.

I might also say that the next two days will probably go down as the hottest two days of 2009. As we climbed out of the woods into the more exposed meadows of the Olympic montane forest, the heat swallowed us. Our intake of water jumped to nearly a gallon a day each. The last of four miles was extremely tough for Jared as we appoarched Heart Lake and we arrived at our campsite at around 10am only to find it still occupied by the previous night's resident. A lady that was clearly in no hurry to move on.

While waiting for our new friend to depart our reserved campsite, we swam in Heart Lake and hiked "light pack" east on the Cat Basin Trail towards the Bailey Range.

We ended up seeing and visiting with her four additional times during the hike and week.

A grouse escorted her two chicks across a trail along Heart lake.

We spent the day trying to avoid both the bugs (largely black flies) and the heat. The latter was spent by swimming in the lake, but that did not relieve us from the bugs at all. The only true relief was total submergence in the lakes' pure waters. Unfortunately, one can not hide forever. As we visited with other hikers coming the couter-clockwise direction on the loop, they assured us that the "bugs" dissapeered at around 9:00pm. What they forgot to mention was the flies depart, only to leave the mosquitoes. Fortunately, the repellent we carried was actually affective on the latter pests.

The shape of Heart Lake gives it its name.

On Thursday morning we were strapping our packs together and had the first of three really cool wildlife encounters. Bending down, I caught a movement of white out of the corner of my right eye. Down the trail came a mountain goat with her youngster who follwed about 10 meters behind. They took a right on the spur trail right into our campsite. Jared and I yielded the the area and watched cautiously. At one point, the ewe took a couple of steps toward us and as if she were a bear, I yelled to indicate that my line on the ridge had been drawn. I got to thinking, what do you do in case a mountain goats attacks? There are entire books written on the subject with regard to bears and cougars, but goats have always been missing from the discussion! From behind, came more movement as a ram moved restlessly on the ridge above. In a few minutes, all three dissapeered into the canyon below and we were allowed to finish our packing in relative unease.

First Moma.....

The little one....it should be noted that Mountain Goats are not native to the Olympics. They were planted in the early part of the 20th century, but prior to that, glaciers in the Puget Sound area prevented them from arriving from the Cascades.

We departed for what became our most scenic day as well as the most difficult miles of hiking for my young partner. As it turns out, I made a very effective choice by taking the route up the Sol Duc first as it is much more of a gradual gain in elevation. From Heart Lake, there was a 300 foot climb to near the summit of High Divide, but after that point, the trail became a gentle, undulating route (with one glaring exception near Bogachiel Peak) until a steep drop above Deer Lake.

The Olympic Marmont is native and unique to the Olympic Peninsula. It is surprisingly large compared to the Marmonts of the neighboring Cascades. At first I tought I might have been looking at a coyote, fox and eventually a mountain lion.

At Deer Lake, we noticed that the top of the Bear Grass blooms had been chewed off. A deer demonstrated who and how as we folded up our camp on day three.

The views of Mt. Olympus and then the peaks and vallies of the Seven Lakes Basin were tremendous. Jared was especially taken by the Hoh River Valley nearly a mile below us. Unfortunately, a stop to enjoy the scene was tempered by the cloud of bugs that attacked the loitorer. My usual style pausing or even sitting for an extended period of time to enjoy a particularly joyful view was suspended. With this form of expedited travel, we were arriving at campsites much earlier than planned and our arrivial at Deer Lake in the early afternoon was no surprise.

Mt. Olympus could be viewed from nearly the entire route on the High Divide Trail.

Later in the day, we took a swim in the chilly waters and I reveled in the feel of mountain water on my tortured flesh. Better yet, the loss in elevation to a mere 3,500 feet dropped the population of flies to less than nightmarish.

Deer Lake could be seen in the distance, but it was much farther than it looked.

Deer Lake provided an excellent swimming pool in the mid-elevations of the Olympic Mountains.

Friday morning we slept leisurely and departed camp around 8:30am and arrived at the Sol Duc Trailhead at around 11:00am.

Lake Number 8 is one of many lakes in the Seven Lakes Basin and perhaps named with a touch of irony.

Overall, I count the loop as 22 miles even though I have yet to find any reports or maps that are consistent with each other. As advice to other hikers I would say hike clockwise. The trail is in amazing condition and my hat and respect goes out to the generations of Olympic National Park trail crews and enginieers that maintain this incredibly difficult route. On Thursday, we found a crew from the Washington Trails Assocition completeing work in the hot sun that parks service crews had marked as needs. There are several miles between Bogacheil Peak and the junction of the Seven Lakes Basin that could fall off the ridge at a natural whim.

The Upper Bogachiel River Valley of Olympic National Park is one area were the trail is hanging on to the side of a ridge and could be removed at the whim of any natural event.

In our haste, we were never able to visit the Seven Lakes Basin or any of the lakes therin. Thereby giving us the crack in which to plan another trip to the area.

Parting Shot....
Beargrass reflects in Heart Lake along the High Divide Loop in Olympic National Park.

Sunset/Sunrise

2009-08-03T09:45:00.000-07:00

Some people wait for weeks to find scenes like this. This was the result of camping one night on Rialto Beach in Olympic National Park. In recent weeks with the heat inland and the contrast between cold and hot right at the surfline, fog has been the dominant feature on the coast. On this evening, the fog was retreated off shore just enough to supply personality and contrast.

In the morning, the sun broke through but the fog provided allowed the rays of light to take on a more solid appearance.

Summerland Allows Quick Access of Mt. Rainier Slopes

2009-07-19T07:58:00.000-07:00

I have spent most of the summer roaming and recreating the forests and beaches of the Olympic Peninsula. Desperate to be back in the high mountains as the calendar turned mid-July, I heard about a trail at Mt. Rainier that was free of snow and open for exploration.

Heather displays color on the slopes of Mt. Rainier at Summerland.

Summerland is just around my two-hour drive definition of local playground equipment. The easiest way to access the area is drive 7 miles east of Packwood on Highway 12 and then urn north on Highway 123. When you arrive at the park road towards Sunrise Visitor Center take a left turn. You will drive by the Park Service entrance station where they will require an entry fee and then drive for three more miles to Fryingpan Creek.

A dense population of Glacier Lily resides along the Wonderland Trail in Mt. Rainier National Park. Summerland is one of many meadows that will feature amazing wildlower displays in the next few weeks.

The trail starts across the road from a small parking area and then proceeds on an incredibly gentle grade adjacent to Fryingpan Creek. The forest changes and those hikers that need instant gratification get occasional views of the Tahoma Ridge to the south. On my trip, the change into occasional meadow growth accented the scents of the seasons sojourn. In reality, the first 3/4 of the trail is incredibly easy. The last mile from the bridge over Fryingpan Creek to the plateau on Mt. Rainier's eastern flank is the only section that is even remotely challenging as the trail switchbacks up the ridge.

Little Tahoma towers over the Wonderland Trail and early season flowers on July 15th.

By doing the math, the total mileage from trailhead to the heavenly views as Summerland equals just over 4 miles. The overall ratio of effort to world class scenery made me feel downright guilty.

The Wonderland Trail continues towards Panhandle Gap from Summerland in Mt. Rainier National Park.

Summerland is famous as a location to watch the large mountain rodents known as Marmots. On our trip, we spent several hours among the talus slopes above the meadow, but not a marmot to be found. Of course part of the problem was that were there during nap time. On warm days, Marmots will be active in the morning and then again in the evening all the while snoozing through the heat of the day.

Clearly, those camping at Summerland have a clear advantage. If you would like to spend the night and dwaddle about the ridge, watching marmots and perhaps the sun set over Goat Island Ridge contact the National Park Service at Mt. Rainier. You can reserve one of the six secluded sites at Summerland. A couple of the sites are available on a first come, first serve basis.

A mountain stream flows through Summerland in Mt. Rainier National Park.

No matter how long you plan to stay, be sure to visit a place dominated by winter but named after the fair season.

Earn Peace on the South Olympic Coast Wilderness

2009-06-29T08:00:00.000-07:00

I am still but a baby when it comes to hiking along Northwest Washington's coastal wilderness. This isn't like hiking in the mountains where at worst, a trail washout may detour your hike and cause delays. On the coast, you intimimately interact with the subject of your worship. The ocean fascinates you, it forms the trail that you walk on and will stop you on a scheduled whim.

I have had two recent hikes on the south coast wilderness which begins south of the Quillayute River. The "north coast wilderness" begins on the other side of the river and continues north to the Makah Reservation near Cape Flattery.

The Giant's Graveyard bathes in beautiful evening light as Jared and I head south on 3rd Beach.

Just east of La Push, the hikes start at Third Beach. It is 1.6 miles to Third Beach itself and then a series of ladders with rope help take trekkers up the steep slopes to cross over Taylor Point. The small head creates a natural barrier to human movement as it juts out into the surf. The rugged trail spends a long mile in the coastal forest, out of sight of the ocean before dropping back to a quiet cove on the south side of the head.

The trail drops to a point just adjacent to a rocky point that requires less than a four-foot tide to pass. There is a rugged overland route, up and over a 20 foot cliff and the Park Service has installed a help rope on the south slope, but one may choose to wait, With secure footsteps and a jolt of adrealene, the passage may be made in the gentle surf as long as the hiker doesn't mind getting wet to the hips.

Passing Scott's Bluff requires a steep climb with a rope help. Jared works his way up the climb above the surf.

The route option is another challenge to less experienced and physical hikers. Scott's Bluff requires a three foot tide to pass, but this statement is important. The rope is your friend. "The rope" is about a 75 foot help up an often muddy 60% slope. Even in dry weather, small seeps turn the clay slopes into mush and make uphill traction problimatic. On Wednesday, my son and I chose to avoid the rope in a driving rain by bouldering around Scott's Bluff during the lowest tide of 2009. It took us about an hour to negotiate perhaps 150 meters over slippery, slimy rocks and boulders before returning to the beach. Several times during the scramble, we vocalized that a repel down the rope probably would have been the better economic choice.

Jared makes progress on the climb.

As a warning, however, there are only a handful of campsites at Scott Creek and all of them were full on Tuesday night when you would think visitation and backcountry use would be at its lowest. Scott's Creek is just the right distance for those that start their hike late in the day We did find a small site farther back in the woods, but it was not the optimal ocean view campsite by any stretch.

Rangers will tell you that hiking on the coast will take almost twice as long as on a regular trail. Two more points south of Scott's Bluff to Toleak Point require five-foot tides or less (which is more than about 60% of the 24 hour day) From Scott's Bluff to Toleak Point, the route is a quick hour at low tide. South of the Scott Creek area is StrawberryPoint and then Toleak Point that looks a lot like its northern counter-part Sand Point (near Cape Alava on the Lake Ozette Loop) geologically speaking.

A Harbor Seal looks for food in a large tide pool at Toleak Point.

At low tide, Toleak offers great tide pools that should be enjoyed. One of my tide pool visits featured a visit from a small harbor seal as hermit crabs curiously crawled to the toes of my boots. An eagle scoped the pools for opportunity from the 60 foot rock that is Toleak Point. Wide beaches attract novice and experienced hikers at the south coasts most popular destination.

An eagle scopes the shallow waters north of Toleak Point for an easy meal.

Getting to Toleak Point is an easy 6.2 mile coast hike that is largely easy, but has challenges for those without overall fitness. Standing on the beach at Strawberry Poit or Toleak and knowing that you are in total wilderness relaxes your entire persona. The farther you get from the Quillayute River, the easier the weight on your shoulders.

Forks Logging Tour Worth the Time

2009-06-27T19:07:00.000-07:00

Every now and then, you stumble across a bargain and you just have to brag on it. It this case, it was more a display of culture than anything else.

The Forks Logging Tour has a number of happy sponsors that want to be a part of the story.

The Forks area Chamber of Commerce must be among the most active in the region. A stop by their offices this last week revealed that they are swamped with visitors thrilled to see the sights described in Stephanie Meyers "Twilight and subsequent editions. One of the Chamber representatives told me that visitation in 2009 had already exceed 2008 and the fans from overseas were just starting to arrive.

My son Jared, our guide and other families from North Carolina and Maryland on the Forks Logging Tour.

Still trying to be relevant right next door to the Chamber office and a replica of Bella's truck is the Fork;s Logging Museum. Perhaps that story will come in another post, but a service of the Chamber and Museum is an occasional Logging tour. My son, who has become an avid fan of the History Channel's "Axmen" was was beyond excited to take this tour. All it took was a phone call to reserve the spots. The tour is free of charge! (Please see notes to follow....)

On Monday morning, at 9:00am sharp, our tour departed the Chamber parking lot and headed south. Our guide, a retired Forester from the Washington Department of Natural Resources attempted to find an active logging site, but had no luck initially. Instead, we crossed the Hoh River and pulled into the parking lot of Allen's Lumber Mill. It was described as a modest production site that has only incurred minor technology upgrades since the 1950s.

As our tour talked in the log yard, a load was taken into the mill.

The hemlock logs are stripped of bark by this machine.

We stood just feet from Hemlock logs being stripped of bark, and cut to proper size by huge radial saws. We watched intently as pieces of lumber were created from logs and sorters graded and placed them into proper collections before their time in the kiln. It was a slow, methodical tour of yesteryear. There was no hurry. Admittedly, there were moments when I was bored, but my son was enthralled the entire time and it was good not to be rushed in such a venture.

This saw cut logs into 96" sections.

We were so close to the action that you could hear insurance agents squirm in the distance.

Finally, the log was cut into board widths by this saw.

Our guide showed great care in the story of change that turned the area logging industry to near irrelevance behind tourism and the current "Twilight" craze referring to the time of the "spotted owl". He acknowledged that Forks once stared with displeasure at tourists, but now find it as the next stage of life.

For some unknown reason, this logging site was not active.

At the same time, private timberlands are being worked like farms without the farmhouse. Our guide had a dogged determination to find and show us an active logging site. We drove east of town up the Calwah drainage to find "wood down" but nobody working at a site complete with a "yarder" and "skyline". On good information, we were driven about 15 miles northwest of Forks where a small operation was working what appeared to be a 20 acre site.

The logs were picked up and piled near the "delimber".

First, the log is roller through a cutter that removes all of the limbs from the tree.

After stripping the tree of limbs, the machine "bucked" it by cutting it into smaller lengths.

The Olympic Peninsula has a long history in the logging industry and the careful consideration of the rest of the nation has forced Forks to align itself with multiple uses of area forests. The preservation of federal lands in Olympic National Park put definate limits and the success of the industry itself began to put pressure on the available resource as it sucombs at a faster pace to far more efficient harvesting techniques. The bottom line is that fewer and fewer people are working in the Forks area timber industry. The Forks Chamber of Commerece and the Forks Timber Musuem are just reminding everyone that the community and the generations that built it had their collective roots in the harvest.

In the 25 minutes or so we were on site, we watched two truck loads depart for area mills.

The three and a half hour tour had its slow moments but in the end, I donated the Chamber a $20 bill. Still an absolute steal for a real look into an area culture and history. I may be noted for my chilly reception of the timber industry, but sometimes a little respect is due.

Off the Olympic Coast with NOAA

2009-06-25T11:28:00.000-07:00

Along the Olympic Coast of Northwest Washington State, NOAA (National Oceanic & Atmospheric Administration) and the ground presence of the National Park Service are inexorably connected. NOAA administers the 3,310 square mile Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary but has a minimal presence on the beaches where the National Park Service has multiple back and front country rangers on duty along the 73 miles of wilderness coast between the Quinault and Makah Nations. Park Service personnel are trained to respond to sea mammal standings as well as other reporting and education procedures.

NOAA's science craft Tatoosh often plays host to scientists and wildlife survey teams. It played host to eight coastal Park Rangers and educators for a few hours in late June.

It is this relationship that is the impetus behind NOAA hosting a group of Park Rangers for an off-shore tour this last week. The rangers and one local teacher met at NOAA’s science boat Tatoosh that is based out of La Push, Washington.

The tour began on the south side of James Island through the narrow mouth of the Quillayute River into the open ocean were conditions were akin to a lake. The only complaint was that there was an abundance of high thin clutter clouds that amounted to a slightly less than powder blue-sky day. As we rounded James Island and headed north, Mt. Olympus towered over the Olympic Peninsula towards the southeast.

Cake Island is just a few miles off shore from famous Rialto Beach at Olympic National Park.

First stop on our excursion was Cake Island which serves as a major rookery for a number of seabirds. Chief among them are Puffins and Common Murre, but also include Cormorants and Western Gulls. As we arrived, a Bald Eagle was raiding the colony and chaos was the rule of the moment. While the island is set aside as a place for the birds to call their own, peace and quiet was not to be had as the gulls raided and the Murres took flight, momentarily leaving their eggs behind and in peril.

Murres and Puffins among other species litter the water around Cake Island.

Common Murre

Puffin

Next was a pair of islands to the north aptly called Sea Lion Rock and then Carroll Island. Sea Lion Rock is a low lying, surf beaten stone that has a high point just 50-75 feet above the sea and is the reign of sea lions. A few hundred yards to the north at Carroll Island, Sea Lions and bird life were abundant on the low lying shores that led to the steep cliffs several hundred feet above. In three locations, the ocean cut large caves including one that chopped through the entire island from west to east. From within the caves came the unmistakable social communication of California and Stellar Sea Lions.

Two California Sea Lions greeted us as we approached Sea Lion Rock.

Carroll Island has several caves where Sea Lions find solitude from the pounding surf of the Northern Pacific.

At one point during the tour, our captain shut off the boat’s motor on the northern side of the island and allowed the craft to drift silently first east and then south as we silently listened to and watched the private dramas that were taking place on shore.

Cormorants dominante the landscape adjacent to Carroll Island.

The northwest side of Carroll Island had this population of Stellar and California Sea Lions. The island is used generally as a retreat for males after the breeding season, but on this day, females and pups were also spotted and stirred a scientific inquiry thaty may have to be updated.

The tour was derailed as we began to head north for potentially 30 minutes take a close look at Ozette Island off the western most point of Washington State near Cape Alava. In transit, our captain came over the speaker and said that a whale had been sighted. Sure enough, a Humpback was fishing a current and the boat captain began playing a game of hide and seek with the massive fisher. Based on experience and guesswork, our guide would move the boat to a spot where the whale would probably surface and then turn off the engine.

The tail of a Humpback whale is usually a signal that the whale is going into a dive that will last for five to seven minutes. Wait patiently, he will most likely return to the surface is the same general area.

Time after time, this strategy was rewarded with the preceding “blow” and then surfacing of the whale. While we never witnessed a full breech (the whale jumping completely out of the water), the estimated 55 foot whale consistently provided us with many sightings.

The most we saw of a humpback whale that we kept company off of the Olympic Coast on a Tuesday in late June.

After the trip, I thought about my limited role as a Park Ranger for the National Park Service and how it relates to NOAA and the Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary. I now have more of an affliction to the wildlife that lies just off the beaches where I educate visitors and patrol on a daily basis. The partnership is now in sharp focus.

The Statues of La Push

2009-06-25T09:55:00.000-07:00

I had to post this photo that really didn't work with any other stories and themes of this blog. It does illustrate wild coast atmosphere of Washington's Olympic Coastline.

Two eagles pose for photos on Tuesday morning in the Quillayute village of La Push.

Cape Alava Calls Many to the Far West

2009-06-23T08:31:00.000-07:00

The view from my campsite at Cape Alava as a fog rolls in.

The farthest point on the west coast (outside of Alaska) is a draw like no other in Olympic National Park. Cape Alava is just west of Lake Ozette (third largest freshwater lake in Washington State) and is apart of a 78 mile strip of west coast largely protected as designated wilderness.

The area is so popular that you actually need reservations to camp there. Most days, there is space, but holiday weekends are packed. Cape Alava is just a three mile hike over a beautiful boardwalk between Lake Ozette and the cape.

After my shift, I drove from Forks north to Callam Bay on State Route 112 and then turned south and west on a slow road to Lake Ozette. In all, the trip was just over a long hour. A quick hike of 3.2 miles to the coast resulted in a late arrival to Cape Alava. Even on a Tuesday evening, in early June, near every available site was occupied. I did find a camping spot on the bench just above the beach, but I was less than 100 feet from two other campsites. It was a pretty shady wilderness experience and I found it hard to imagine where people camp when the area is fully occupied with the full number of 86 campers. On this night, there was only about 35 on paper.

One of the most amazing pieces of trail anywhere exists at Cape Alava and Sand Point. Nearly six miles of cedar plank walkway is constructed to prevent resource damage.

The wild coast has had a long history of wildlife interactions. In the interior of Olympic National Park, it is the black bears that both fascinate and serve as a challenge to visitor. Backcountry users are required to secure food and scented items from wildlife. On the coast however, ARFCs (Animal Resistant Food Containers) are required and the traditional practice of hanging food prohibited. The change is a result of inconsistent skill levels by visitors which made raccoons, not necessarily bears continue to find human food attractive even with modest success.

Park Service rangers have documented raccoons playing with the lid of the ARFC as if they are figuring out the new system, but have yet to master the two screws used secure the container. In the long run, wildlife incidents are are becoming rare and the required use of AFRCs are spreading to the higher elevations of the park where damage to the few trees above 3500 feet is apparent..

Upon leaving the boardwalk trail at the beach, it wasn't five minutes before I had a close encounter with the main nemesis of campers in the area. I approached a tree that extended into the shallow surf and a raccoon who was working something in the water. He/she scuttled away up the beach toward the trees before I could even turn my camera in the correct direction.

In the evening, I headed north across the Ozette Reservation which echoed ghosts of the past including the dilapidated ranger station.

Looking north from Cape Alava and the Ozette Reservation towards Cape Flattery, Shi Shi Beach and the Poitn of Arches area.

After a restful night, I headed south towards Sand Point during a solid low tide. My route across the rocky surface included many mid-level tide pools. It was important to watch my step for nearly every one of them could have been fatal to some form of life in this incredibly diverse habitat.

After two hours of wandering south, I reached Sand Point and found the availability of campsites much more to my pleasure. There was more space and vegetation in between the more numerous sites, but there would not be time to make use of them on this particular trip. I headed northeast again back towards my vehicle on one of the most unique trails found anywhere and finished up a nine mile loop.

Sunset on Cape Alava.

Keep checking in because I have more experiences to document.

An update on the Spotted Owl
Two hikes to Toleak Point on the Olympic South Wilderness Coast
The Forks Logging Museum Tour of a mill and logging sites
A trip off-shore into the Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary

Third Beach an Impressive Sight

2009-05-06T20:33:00.000-07:00

Olympic National Parks 48 miles of wilderness coastline includes many secluded beaches, but a few of them are have relatively close access from roads. Third Beach is 1.6 miles from La Push Road west of Forks. The trail had surprisingly large trees, both hemlock and sitka spruce.

I can be reached via a super freeway of a trail from beginning to end. The final quarter mile drops about 200 feet down a drainage which empties on the beach. It is also a good source of water for the longer 17 mile hike down the south coast wilderness to Oil City and the Hoh River drainage.

Looking south on Third Beach show an impassable headland that an overland trail must solve.

My recent hike to Third Beach found a pair backpackers camped behind a rock on the small beach. That evening found a mild high tide and a rough surf which amounted to limited space on the beach. Waves lapped the 36 inch plateau where their tent was located and wetted my boots as I looked for the southern exit from the beach.

Large Sitka Spruce and Hemlock trees highlight the trail to Third Beach.A thin waterfall drops from the headland to the crashing surf below on the south side of Third Beach.

A trail departs from the over the headland to the next beach to the south. Using the beach as an overnight camp is permitted, but permits are necessary through the Olympic National Park Wilderness Information Center or the various locations throughout the park.

Quinault is the Closest of the Olympic Rain Forests

2009-05-06T17:07:00.000-07:00

It was the first weekend of December 2007 that I had planned to visit Lake Quinault. The lake lies at low elevation which allows winter explorations in its rain-forests and along its shores.

Lake Quinault is located on the southwest side of the Olympic Peninsula.

Of course the 1st weekend of December 2007 strikes an ominous slot in our collective memories in Western Washington. At Quinault, not only did 20 inches of rain fall, but the winds that accompanied that storm knocked down entire tracts of mature timber. One only has to look across the South Shore Road at the U.S. Forest Service Information outlet for a glimpse. Huge old growth trees litters the ground to depths of eight to 15 feet.

A year and a half later, I wandered the trails of the Lake Quinault south shore. Several loops allow a total of about 16 miles of unfettered hiking opportunities. Most trails wander a hillside of old growth rain forest, but there was trail access to the lake shore between the USFS Compound and a pair of campgrounds. The trails all connect and there are multiple trailheads from which to begin.

A huge Sitka Spruce tree is located on the southeast side of the lake.
Just to the east of the USFS facilities, there is a small parking area near a bridge over Evans Creek where there is trail access. On the southeast side of the lake, visitors can visit what is billed as the world's largest Sitka Spruce (after some research it is actually the third largest) using a 0.3 mile trail. Regardless of the arguments, the tree is impressive.
With no tri-pod, I can only offer this poorly composed photo for a size relationship to the massive Sitka Spruce.

Lake Quinault is 36 miles north of Hoquiam just on the fringe of my "local" recreation limits and is a part of the greater Olympic National Park complex. The U.S. Forest Service manages the southern shore of the lake. Some trailheads, including the Quinault Rain Forest Trail require a federal recreation pass.

This 450 year old Douglas Fir is located along the Quinault Rain Forest Trail.

Lake Quinault is a portal to a much larger and primeval wilderness in Olympic National Park. If you are not that adventurous, the south shore has more than enough to pique your interest.

A scene from the Quinault Rain Forest Trail.

The First Days are Always Exciting

2009-04-24T18:14:00.000-07:00

>"Hole in the Wall" just north of Rialto Beach allows visitors to cross through the passage and take in the tide pools at low tide.

In all of my positions in new places, this is the first time I could start relaying initial impressions right from the beginning. Starting a new job like this is so exciting on so many levels. It is a new park, a new story, and a new culture. When you learn this much this quickly, there is much excitement. I have been at enough parks now where you can't help but make a few notes.

The view from the sea level waterfront in Port Angeles makes the little town a great tourist destination.

I took advantage of the near perfect weather on Thursday to walk 1.5 miles north on Rialto Beach. After walking through "Hole in the Wall" and exploring a few tide pools, I caught up with an older couple as we crossed Ellen Creek.

They were from Germany, but had spent many years in the United States. We talked about jobs and the economy (who isn't these days?) and the lady just sighed. "We just took a trip through British Columbia and traveled on the ferry to Port Angeles," she said. "Compared to Victoria, Port Angeles looked like a third-world country".

An inmature bald eagle flies northbound along Rialto Beach.
It has been several years since I was in this area so I had no instincts to be anything other than objective. It is always thought provoking to hear the perspective of another.

After I left them, I wandered to the north jetty along the Quillayute River. It lies on the opposite shore of the tribal community La Push.

A pair of seagulls join all the rest of the life watching a Rialto Beach sunset.

I sat and waited for a Bald Eagle perched on a snag to make his move, but the only other movement were two other eagles, a couple of seals and a handful of cormorants in the river.

A Rialto Beach sunset.

Just two miles from where I am spending the summer, this jetty may make a good place to hang out.

The Spread of Holly Needs to be Checked

2009-04-19T20:09:00.000-07:00

The bright red berries and pointed leaves are synonymous with peace and love of the holidays, but the rest of the year, Holly has become an invasive pest. In some areas of the Northwest U.S. and Western Canada, it is a crop much like our local Noble Fir but Holly is not native to the region and like many invasive species enjoys the ingredients it needs for success as well anonymity from natural predators.

Holly is quickly becoming an invader of Northwest Forests such as this small population in the Old Growth Forest at Lewis & Clark State Park.

In my work with invasive species, I hear many home and property owners complain about the plant as they tried to remove it from their yards. Like many invasive species, it reproduces in more than one way. Seeds are dispersed by birds which accounts for small populations well away from the parent plant. The trees also spread by “suckering” and “layering“. Suckering is the reproduction of a plant by shoots that arise from an existing root system. Layering is when the plant grows roots where stems touch the ground. Take a look through any of our local forests or reproduction lands and you will find small populations of Holly growing in areas devoid of solar radiation or in full sunlight.

While it is not listed on the Washington State list of noxious weeds, many other states and provinces are waging formal battles with the plant. English holly has become a serious pest in state and national parks like Olympic. Urban parks and arboretums in Portland, Seattle and Vancouver B.C. all have ongoing programs to eliminate the plants. More locally, The Friends of Seminary Hill in Centralia are slowly confronting the invaders along with Ivy in the Seminary Hill Natural Area.

On a recent hike, I also noticed a small population in the old growth loop at Lewis and Clark State Park near Toledo.

Holly is effectively controlled is by removing the entire tree and the entire root system, and then physically removing the tree and its branches out of the woods. A holly branch, if left on the ground, will grow roots and continue to thrive. Lopping off or cutting down Holly trees does nothing to the root system, and the plant easily sprouts new shoots and continues to grow.

I would employ the knowledge of a licensed professional or the local noxious weed control board and apply pesticide to the stump of a freshly cut holly bush or tree.

Holly has its uses, but like most invasive species, its presence is having unintended consequences on the natural system of our area. It is crowding out native plants and in some cases, physically impairs our movement in our own yards with its stiff, protruding leaves. Care has to be taken as even the best of intentions can make this plant more aggressive and difficult to treat.

Closing Washington State Parks Cost Twice as Much

2009-03-21T09:46:00.000-07:00

Times are tough, and governments are having to close purse strings. Here in the State of Washington, state leaders are facing a potential deficit of nearly nine billion dollars. The governor recently asked Washington State Parks to figure out how to cut its budget by 23%, or $22.9 million, with direction to transfer some park properties to other jurisdictions, reduce service at others, and completely mothball still more.

The resulting list includes 33 parks that would be “mothballed,” or temporarily closed. The public could still access the listed parks, but only by foot. Parking areas and restroom facilities would be closed and park staff would either be reassigned or laid off. State Parks would realize roughly $8.4 million in savings should they and the Legislature ultimately agree on this approach.

This effects local parks like Lewis & Clark, and Rainbow Falls along with others that wildly popular like Millersylvania Memorial and Beacon Rock that I have written about in this blog.

This creates problems for many parks that have delicate land grant origins. Schafer State Park near Montesano was deeded to the State under the condition that it remain a state park, open to the public. in the absence of that stipulation, the State would have to give the park back to the Schafer family. Discussions of this sort are taking place all over the state.

Closing and shutting down our state parks is the wrong thing to do and many in Olympia know that. Many of them are built from the hard times during the depression era when leaders opened up public lands out of a stimulus necessity. A love affair was born, but ill-fated ideas during this latest round of financial troubles have different priorities in the lead.

State Parks are more often visited by local, lower and middle income user groups that can’t afford to travel farther to other regional and national parks. This takes away local opportunities from communities that are struggling to keep their own local parks, let alone campgrounds and other types of recreation available to its citizenry.

Let’s not forget the number of employees that will lose their seasonal and family wage jobs. The potential damage here is two-pronged with recreational opportunities limited while 33 local communities will feel a sharp financial jolt due to job losses and lost tourism.

We shouldn’t be closing parks. We should be keeping them open as the havens they are during tough times.

Oak Creek Wildlife Area Teeming with Eye Candy

2009-03-08T10:36:00.000-07:00

Visitors to the Oak Creek Wildlife area can view large wildlif close up over the next few weeks.

For the next few weeks, the Oak Creek Wildlife area will allow visitors to view Rocky Mountain elk, mule deer, California big horn sheep, and resident sage grouse. The wildlife migrates to the lower elevations of the Tieton and Naches River canyons to avoid the heavy snows in the upper elevations.

The Oak Creek Wildlife area is located about 15 miles west of Yakima and allows exploration of lands that are protected as wildlife habitat. Hunting is allowed in some areas with a permit, but most will find an opportunity to watch elk and other wildlife at close proximity. The land was purchased in 1939 for the purpose of protecting wildlife and the areas’ agricultural interests. There is nearly 100 miles of fencing to keep wildlife from damaging crops adjacent to the refuge.

Approximately 150 elk are fed per day at the Oak Creek Headquarters off U.S. Highway 12 near Naches, Washington.

Visitors are allowed to drive all over the property with only a few roads described as not suitable for cars. Hiking, camping and exploring are also permitted with some seasonal restrictions. The needs of wildlife comes first, and closures occur during sensitive nesting seasons for eagles, hawks and falcons as well as winter recovery seasons for larger mammals like elk and deer.

About a mile west of the junction of Highway 410 on Highway 12, is the small Oak Creek visitor center that allows curious sightseers the opportunity to view wildlife from the comfort of their vehicle. Tour trucks that are supported by donations are available most weekends during winter. Since the wildlife does not consider the truck a threat, riders can view the animals from as close as ten feet.

Elk are the most common large mammal sighted, but visitors can also see the more shy California Bighorn Sheep that were reintroduced into Washington after native populations were wiped out in the 1930s.

For those that are more enthused about the wildlife, you can “adopt” an elk or sheep for $35 to $50. The refuge generally spends about that much to feed a single animal per winter. The winter population may number up to 800 animals in a serious winter.

Impressive Snowfall Pales in Comparison to Other Winters

2008-12-27T10:22:00.000-08:00

Anyone that stepped out their door or looked out their window this week, had to stop, take a breath and perhaps reminisce a little. For those with less than twenty or thirty winters’ experience, this last week’s extended winter weather will be etched in their memories for quite some time.

Downtown Winlock wears a significant mantle of snow on December 22nd, 2008.

Some however look at this week as a mere dusting compared to winters of the past. Some younger readers may remember the winter of 2003-2004 when a week of heavy weather struck the week after New Years. Most areas saw about 10 inches of snow followed by ice storms that knocked out power to 150,000 people in Southwest Washington.

Able-bodied men shovel snow off of buildings in Downtown Winlock.

The winter of 1968-69 was the last of the “deep freeze” events. For 18 days, Southwest Washington had temperatures that were below freezing including Portland’s all-time low of three degrees below zero and an equal number of days with snow on the ground. Oregon’s Rose City measured 8 to 14 inches on the ground most of that time period with a total of 18.9 inches of snowfall. Seattle reported 67 inches of snowfall. In my childhood days, I remember the snow depth in Eugene over my head.

A winter scene on Olaqua Creek.

Paul Foster of Winlock returned from a California logging operation to his King Road farm in the fall of 1968 and it soon began to snow. “We were never totally without snow on the ground until March,” he said. “We had 30 inches on the level,“ he explained. "That much snow was taking down old barns and chicken houses at that time,” Foster continued. “Every able-bodied person helped shovel off roofs”. Foster also explained how he would use his D-4 CAT and a piece of plywood to accelerate the snow removal process .

Blue skies unfold a beautiful scene in December of 2008 in Western Washington.

Locally, many folks responded with interest to stories of the winter of 1949-50. Statistically, it really started in earnest on January 13th. “The winds were coming out of the east and my dad said we were in for it,” said life-long Winlock resident Mike Porter who was 7 at the time. The temperature stayed below freezing and the snow started to pile up at their place on Hawkins Road. “We couldn’t get the old 39 Ford out of its parking place so we took a horse with a trailer to town,” he continued. “It was a wonderful time in life. We sat around the pot-bellied stove in the train station while the others shopped for supplies in Winlock. On the way home, we made deliveries to those that needed supplies”.

Left-Adam Russell and Josh Lowman of Longview snowboard down Washington Street. Adam Russell of Winlock executes a jump with his snowboard on the Washington Street snow run in Winlock.

Foster recalled how a group of kids slid down the Washington Street “snowplay” area in Winlock and ended up in the garage of the Catholic Church two blocks from the base of the hill.

Amber Paschich of Onalaska and Lydia Dolph slide down the Washington Street "Snowplay" area in Winlock in a rather unsuccessful manner.

That winter supplied Portland 41 inches of snowfall, while Vancouver accumulated 35.3 inches. Seattle garnered a one day total of 21.4 inches of snowfall and a monthly total of 63.6 inches. In addition, winds blew so hard that snow drifts of five to six feet blossomed on the landscape creating the ingredients of the region’s only true blizzard that caused 13 deaths. Many low elevation locations reported snow depths that exceeded 50 inches.

The sign still says "open" at Special Moments" in Downtown Winlock, despite icicles, snow and very little parking on a snow covered street in Downtown Winlock.

35 years earlier, the winter of 1915-16 supplied Seattle with its largest one day total snowfall as 21.5 inches of snow fell on February 2nd, 1916 collapsing roof of the St. James Cathedral. In January and February of that year, a grand total of 58 inches of snow fell in Seattle and reports of 2 to 4 feet of snow depth in Western Washington was not uncommon. Portland counted 27.9 inches.

Two deer lay in the snow on a side stree off Shannon Lewis Way in Winlock, Washington.

The 1880s were the good ol’ days of winter as Portland picked up 34.1 inches of snow during December of 1884. Seattle reported 47” of snow on the ground in January of 1880 and Bellingham reported “three weeks of snow” in January of 1871. Leaking into the next decade, Portland had its largest monthly snowfall total of 35.3 inches in January of 1890.

One of the 600 pound chickens scattered around Winlock was wearing a mantle of snow.

While many are debating this “La Nina” year and the prospects of a long drawn-out winter, one thing is for sure. History tells us about the potential of more winter to come as we enter the cold months of 2009.

Winlock Basketball Tours the Redwoods

2008-12-24T11:01:00.000-08:00

Last week, I had the honor to accompany the Winlock Basketball team on a trip to Northern California. I submitted this to my editor with a number of photos that took the experience away from sports amd more towards the team experience. My editor didn't place any of these photos with this article in the Town Crier. Let me know if these were important photos to accompany this story.

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It is all about basketball and really it’s not. The Winlock boy’s basketball team traveled to Northern California where they played four games over four nights. 15 boys made up a small Varsity and Junior Varsity contingent that traveled to Fortuna, California for a game against Winlock Head Coach Gary Viggers’s alma mater Fortuna High School. Next, they stayed in Crescent City where they were a part of the 9th Annual Rotary Warrior Classic which hosted teams from all over the region.

One of the challenges this year is to find solid competition for an extraordinarily talented group of basketball players. During the summer, the group traveled as far as Reno to play teams that would prepare them for this season’s WIAA play.

With just 257 students in Grades 9-12, Gold Beach (Oregon)couldn't match athletes with this Winlock Basketball team. The Cardinals polished off the Panthers 75-33.

Winlock Schools Superintendent Richard Conley agrees with the difficulty in scheduling stronger competition closer to home. “A bigger school does not want to come and play a smaller school” he explained. “It puts them into a nearly no-win situation”.

Three teams came from schools with enrollments of 1,000 students or more on the trip. Fortuna presented the Cardinals with its first loss of the season with a miracle shot with 2.2 seconds left in the game. The boys took care of business against Central Valley from near Redding, California with a 64-48 victory that set up a much anticipated match-up with the home-standing Del Norte High School of Crescent City with 1,100 students in which the Cardinals won 52-40.

Winlock's Mike Kent gets an opportunity for a lay-up under the board against Del Norte High School of Crescent City, California.

There are more subtle objectives other than basketball with a trip like this, however. It was the first time that all but one of the boys had seen the massive Redwoods of Northern California. Before visiting the Battery Point Lighthouse, the boys joined a unique chapter of the “Polar Bear Club” by wading out into the ocean surf on a cold December morning. On a Friday night, many of the players tried Thai food complete with the use of chopsticks for the first time.

Cardinal basketball players had to take a dip in the cool Northern California surf during their five day basketball excursion.

Together, they did all of this together.

“What a great experience for them” said Winlock Head Coach Gary Viggers Sr. “Some of these kids will never get to take a trip like this again”.

This particular journey has been a goal of Viggers for four years; the chance to take one of his teams to Fortuna where he played in 1964. Where his brothers could watch his handiwork and his daughter could feed them at her restaurant in Klamath, California. In December of 2007, Viggers made a presentation to the Winlock School Board and permission was granted for a proud coach to take this group of young men on such a trip, in this, his final year of coaching.

There is no doubt that Viggers has the unspoken respect of his players. While there is considerable chiding, kids respond quickly to a reminder (call it a subtle order) to remove hats in a restaurant. This is a coach that clearly has a special relationship with his players.

Sightseeing Winlock Seniors (left to right) Jordan Davis, Jake Brown, Tyler Hertz, Tyler Diamond and Nathan Booth enjoy a calm moment at the Battery Point Lightouse in Crescent City.

“If a bear comes and attacks me, they would fight that bear and I would fight it for them” said Viggers.

The boys, a small group of parents and a few donors raised nearly $5000 for the trip. Together, the boys cut, sold and delivered 22 cords of firewood as well as made and sold original T-shirts. They also pursued a less than successful aluminum drive.

Randy and Jo Booth, parents of Senior standout Nathan Booth, were instrumental in helping make the opportunity become a reality. But the senior Booth was quick to point out that loads of wood were donated by Bob Sherwood and Joe Sickles while delivery was provided by Brad Nailon and Steve Stallman. In addition, Jo Booth and Sue Davis, organizers for the Winlock Rec. Basketball program, acknowledged significant monetary donations by Jeff Millman and Denny McNelly.

The boys also looked, smelled and ate better due to the donations of Bob and Dee Cunningham who meticulously washed the teams’ uniforms after each game and then supplied healthy snack foods among other benefits.

Don’t think that all went perfectly either. Wrong vehicles departed, to be replaced 50 miles later in Kalama. There were flat tires, wrong turns, and hours of icy, snow covered roads. Parents and Coaches tried to fly in on airlines that were reluctant to land in Arcata, the only airport in the region. Most of the chaos went nearly unnoticed by the entire group.

“Despite all of the things that went wrong, twenty years from now they are going to think this experience was pretty cool” said Randy Booth who was one of several parents that followed the team to Northern California.

Superintendent Conley agreed “It is great for kids. It’s a wonderful experience for them”.

Winlock Senior Jake Brown looked at the trip from an elite ball players perspective. “It is good to play consecutive nights. It is just like the experience in Yakima at State” he observed. When pushed, he admitted “the vacation is nice, but I am missing the snow”.

Winlock basketball players (bottom left) Kyle Pohll, Bryson Coleman, Jordan Larson (manager), Nick Hoven, Phillip Smerek and Angel Sanchez pose in front of some California Redwoods.

Seniors Nathan Booth and Jordan Davis were impressed by the scenery of Northern California, but Tyler Diamond couldn’t help mention the bonding time with teammates. “I enjoyed hanging out with the team” he said.

One can only hear the discussions that will take place early in 2009 as school convenes once again. The boys will start to rehash and tell the first of many stories about their basketball tour of the Redwood Coast of California and will do so for years to come.

Scenes From a Harbor

2008-12-19T17:07:00.000-08:00

I know that I love to spend all of my time in the mountains, but there is just something about fishing boats and a harbor!

This was the scene in the harbor at Crescent City this evening.

Snowberry Livens our Bleak Winter Landscape

2008-12-04T16:23:00.000-08:00

Little little pearl-colored berries with the texture of popcorn are decorating the roadways of Lewis County this December.

It is funny how time passes and we don’t notice things and then suddenly that which has gone undetected demands attention. After years of years of professing to be a “naturalist” one of this continents most prolific plants recently forced me learn a little more.

There is no way that you can travel Highway 505 east of Winlock this winter and not notice the Snowberry (Symphoricarpos albus) that has erupted into popcorn-like berries along the side of the right-of-way. In reality, the plant is native to just about all North American locations north of 41 degrees latitude.

On their way west in 1805, Lewis & Clark documented what is now known as Common Snowberry near Lolo Pass on the Idaho/Montana border.

Now in December, the plants are bare except for the small kernel-like berries that are light and fluffy to the touch. Along roadsides and near stream banks, displays of Snowberry dominate the landscape like the blooms of the Pearly Everlasting along mountain roads in the fall. It is difficult to remember that these berries started out as small, pink fruits in the spring before they become the egg-white obsession they are in December.

Native Americans had a love-hate relationship with the berry due to its minimal qualities. Some nations referred to it as “corpse berry” or “snake’s berry” as it can be toxic, especially to small children. On the other hand, a couple of berries after a “fatty” meal was known to settle the stomach. The berries can cause vomiting and dizziness and when smashed in water they exude a soapy foam (although my December experiment of the same did not produce those results).

Deer eat the leaves while many small birds nest under the plants. The berries and stems can be important forage for birds, quail, grouse, and bears. Snowberry stems provide food for rabbits and mice.

Common snowberry spreads mainly by vegetative means through sprouting. It show survival grit by reproducing with rhizomes, by seed and resprouts after fire or cutting and it is a common garden plant.

White coralberry and waxberry , otherwise known as Common Snowberry provide us a little brightness in our gloomy Northwest winter, but for this backyard naturalist, it provided the incentive to learn a little more.

Peace Reigns

2008-12-01T21:00:00.000-08:00

Resonate fully with your voice
Rancid thoughts aside
Rage not so that you'll be heard
Ramble not for your own credibility
Rivals to be tamed by your words
Rivals are skeptical of your voice, talents and motives
Ramble not in your comfort zone
Rage only through intelligence
Rancid voices internalized
Resonate with deeds and integrity
Resonate with a powerful presence
Rancid intentions never considered
Rage tactfully articulated
Rambles averted
Rivals soothed

National Park Service at Mount St. Helens Would be Best

2008-11-24T06:11:00.000-08:00

The debate continues to rage in three counties most impacted by our neighborhood volcano. Should the Volcanic Monument continue to be managed by the U.S. Forest Service, or would administration by the National Park Service make any marked difference for the visitors and more importantly, our local economies.

I come at the question from a unique perspective that has fallen on deaf local ears thus far. I have worked 11 summers with the National Park Service. I understand the management culture, and the mindset of the employees themselves. It is an organization that is extremely bureaucratic, but from top to bottom, the service works for the same mission.

Some more photos will be included as time is available... Minnie Peak and Coldwater Peak is classic world class scenery especially in the winter.

In 2004, I came to work for the Forest Service at Coldwater Ridge Visitor Center and Johnston Ridge Observatory at Mount St. Helens. For more than three years, I worked as part of a supervisory team that covered the Monument on the north side of the volcano. Our philosophy was to treat visitors with a very Park Service-like model. It was very successful and despite the Forest Service uniforms, our visitors assumed that Mount St. Helens was a National Park. Like myself, most of our employees had worked in the National Park Service culture and embraced its values.

The problem at Mount St. Helens is that there is a disconnect between the staff on the ground in front of visitors and those that administer the monument from the national and regional level. The Forest Service is torn between its mission of multiple use and this Monument does not fit the standard operating procedure including funding at national, regional and finally district levels as opposed to line item allocations for each property.

The main question should be what will the National Park do for me? It has been well established that the two agencies are heading in different directions (at least under the Bush Administration). While the Forest Service has been cut year after year, to the point of near irrelevancy, the National Park Service actually saw its budget grow this year.

Assuming all or a portion of the Monument became a National Park Service property, and it received its full funding for a resource with its size and visitation, it might be compared to Lassen National Volcanic Park in Northern California. The budget at Lassen was about $4.5 million while St. Helens featured a frugal expenditure of $500,000. During a 2005 study by the National Parks and Conservation Association, Lassen Volcanic’s budget contributed 362 jobs (Part- and fulltime including NPS employees) that generated $11,523,000 of local personal income and brought in $16,436,000 of spending by visitors from outside local areas on lodging, food, transportation, souvenirs, etc. around the park. I might add that Lassen is in a far more remote location, away from major highways and population centers than Mt. St. Helens.

Getting to Coldwater Lake was almost impossibe during the winter of 2006-07 because the Washington Department of Transportation chose to not maintain Highway 504 past MP35.

The National Park Service is a brand name, an icon that is a draw to its own. Surveys in the 1980s found that the goals of many world travelers included “meeting a park ranger”. The U.S. National Park Service is one of the most respected agencies world-wide.

The NPS may also bring with it “exclusive jurisdiction” that would end bizarre cooperation agreements with local agencies as well as the Washington Department of Transportation. The latter is responsible for the management of Highway 504 as well as the closure thereof. Beyond its closed gates, hikers, skiers and those on snow shoes are not allowed to use the route for recreation during the winter for liability reasons. The road from Coldwater Lake to Johnston Ridge has been closed to any recreational use. The Forest Service had a very difficult time keeping access open to recreational areas on the south side of the mountain during the winter of 2006-07. Lack of access goes against the culture of the Forest Service let alone the Park Service. Of course this may be a moot point based on the fact the NPS would probably keep Johnston Ridge open through the winter. One only has to look at Paradise at Mt. Rainier or the Steel Center and Rim Village at Crater Lake National Park to see the effort presented to keep winter ecological stories available to the public.

I also believe that with the additional budget and management would see the value of reopening Coldwater Ridge Visitor Center. The resource at Coldwater Ridge tells its own stories about the recovery of the landscape after the eruption of Mount St. Helens in 1980. It is a totally different ecological location than the more popular center at Johnston Ridge. The National Park Service understands the value of interpreting differing landscapes even if the majority of the public doesn’t always see that same significance.

Coldwater Ridge Visitor Center was kept open all winter as weather would allow. The public is very interested in the winter ecological story in the blast zone.

Putting trained Park Rangers in front of the public is a high priority for the Park Service. Where the Forest Service systematically cut the number of rangers at places like Ape Cave, Windy Ridge and the visitor centers and attempted to replace them with volunteers over the last three years, The NPS culture places a priority of highly trained and skilled rangers with excellent customer service skills.

Finally, the NPS, would not tolerate the condition of the trails in the Mt. Margaret Backcountry or the roads around the Monument. One of the most special wilderness areas in Southwest Washington is now all but unusable due to lack of access. With both the USFS 26 and 99 roads washed out and trails falling off the side of ridges from lack of maintenance, the Margaret Country went almost unvisited during the summer of 2008. Roads around St. Helens that were damaged during the storms of 2006 are just getting reopened, but The National Park Service worked at breakneck speeds to repair damage at Mt. Rainier. They secured nearly $30 million in emergency funds and were genuinely embarrassed that they had to shut down the park or even parts of it for any length of time.

If all or a portion of the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument were transferred to the management of the National Park Service, the culture would change at both the Monument and in the communities around the mountain. Those who use national parks as playgrounds will have new life at Mt. St. Helens with modest improvement in the physical plant, and a more friendly upper management. The only problem local communities would have is how to compete with area major metropolitan areas for residual dollars.

Public Should Ask Many Questions About DNR Land Swap Proposals

2008-11-22T10:25:00.000-08:00

The Washington Department of Natural Resources is working to put all of their manageable eggs into a few baskets. The agency is looking to trade about 7,700 acres of Washington Public Lands for about 19,000 acres of land via Plum Creek Timber Company. Another deal with Port Blakely Tree Farms may not be far behind that includes land just west of Winlock and Vader.

A large portion of that trade would come right out of our Western Lewis County back yard, an area already anemic with public lands. Local residents use that land to ride horseback, hunt and explore, especially in these lean times where driving to the east county for such play becomes a major financial decision.

There are many questions besides the emotional loss of publicly owned land in Lewis County. First off, why would Plum Creek and Port Blakely trade so much land for so little. We are talking about 19,000 acres which has had “low to moderate harvest over the last five years” according to Robin L. Keegan, a media contact for Plum Creek Timber Company. One can only surmise that the value of the resources on the 7,700 acres of DNR land make up for the difference. What is the condition of the land the Citizens of Washington will gain? Are we now in the business of taking harvested land and rehabilitating it?

The second question that comes to mind is why the Lake Creek holdings just west of Winlock? The Department of Natural Resources states that it wants to have its holdings centralized for more efficient management. Are there and thoughts about the people who use those lands?

Currently, two proposed land swaps effect Lewis County residents. The largest would swap 7,700 acres (including 2,155 from Lewis County) for 19,000 acres in King County’s Green River Watershed. The area also happens to be the City of Tacoma’s watershed. That means more public land for King County and less for Lewis. A smaller deal with Port Blakely would exchange 4,000 acres of DNR and Trust lands for an unspecified amount of acreage in eastern Gray’s Harbor County that borders the Capital Forest. Our neighboring Lake Creek area is in the proposed Port Blakely swap.

To complicate the matter further, many of the lands included in these proposed swaps are trust lands owned by Lewis County dating back to the 1930s and are managed by the DNR. Lewis County Commissioners are watching closely as those lands contribute anywhere from $3 million to $16 million to local coffers , but DNR insists they have the final say. Is DNR swapping lands owned by Lewis County?

While DNR officials intend to establish alternative trust lands within the county, it would be dealt for on an “equal value basis” not necessarily an equal amount of acreage.

The deals are complicated and should not be taken and approved at face value. Both sides state repeatedly that they intend to make their lands easier to manage through consolidation. Plum Creek and Port Blakely answer to their stockholders in a simple fashion. The role of the DNR is not quite so clear, but they should be answering all of the interests of its stakeholders.

Meetings regarding these proposals will take place on Tuesday, Dec. 9 at 6:00pm, at the Veterans Memorial Museum in Chehalis. A public input meeting on the Port Blakely exchange will be held at 6 p.m. on Wednesday, Dec. 10 at the Lewis County Law and Justice Center in Chehalis.

Travel the Northwest on AMTRAK

2008-11-11T16:20:00.000-08:00

For those of you that know me, you will probably find it surprising to know that I never had the chance to ride the AMTARK “Cascade” service that run between Eugene and Seattle. At one time, I was a regular. I knew staff and made friends on board. I rode AMTRAK weekly from Klamath Falls to Eugene as an interpreter for Klamath County Tourism and then returned that same night on the southbound #11. Since we moved to Southwest Washington in 2003, we have found several scenarios that would find us on one of the reliable commuter trains. We tried to go to a Mariner game, we tried just go to Seattle for the day or to visit our family in Eugene. Budget and logistics are always an issue but last weekend, it all finally fell together.

The famous Southern Pacific clocktower at Portland's Union Station gives a less than subtle message about how to travel.

Laurie and Jared went to Eugene to be with her family but I had a high school football game to cover on Friday night and deadlines to meet on Saturday. That left Kyle and myself free to take a train to Eugene on Saturday evening. I worked through the website which didn’t even give me the option of going south on AMTRAK #11 that comes through in the early afternoon. Instead, I needed something in the early evening so AMTRAK train #507 was the ticket!

The snack car is usually right behind "Coach #3", therefore, if you are looking for peace and quiet in the walkways, try to sit in Caoch #5.

For the non-train types lurking out there, in general, AMTRAK in the northwest is very reliable. Check during winter storms, but all but one of the trains are usually on time between Eugene and Seattle. Train #14, the northbound Coast Starlight from Los Angeles to Seattle is typically an hour to three down by the time it reaches Eugene. This says more about the congestion in California and the crossing of the Cascades east of Eugene. The rest are almost like clockwork.

The total cost for us was $45 ($30 for me and $15 for that drag along son of mine that is still considered a youth by Amtrak’s definition) for a trip from Kelso to Eugene. The train was right on time and was very comfortable to ride. Perhaps “leg-room” may be an issue, but I suspect that most folks don’t ride long enough for it to be a real issue.

AMTRAK Cascade service features coaches with comfortable seats and electric outlets for your gadget needs. We had heard wireless internet was available, but could never pull it up on Kyle's laptop.

From Kelso to Eugene on the timetable is just over 4 hours. It dawned on me driving home Sunday night that it typically takes 3.5 hours to drive if traffic in Portland is perfect. The 30 minute stop in Portland gives you a chance to catch some fresh air (and for me to take a few photos), but I found myself muttering without this stop, it would make the train real competitive with Interstate 5.

AMTRAK train #508 is ready for departure north out of Portland on Saturday night.

Of course, I always tell people that ask about riding the train to not be in a hurry. Enjoy the chance to take what is for most Americans a unique way to travel.

Fall Beauty Offers Invitation for Learning

2008-11-04T12:54:00.000-08:00

In case you had your eyes closed the last few weeks, we had a beautiful fall. Brilliant colors were produced over the usual drab shades ranging from brown to near rust. The difference this year was something we don’t often see in October. Two weeks of perfectly timed, clear days and cold nights.

Some Big Leaf Maples were on solid display right here in Downtown Winlock.

That is the recipe for the kind of colors that we saw in October and are now watching as the leaves fall to the ground in the breezes and rain of the first fall storms.

The big star this year is clearly the Big Leaf Maple. The stretch of flawless fall weather occurred perfectly as the graceful trees began to shut down for the dark, winter season ahead. Granted, Big Leak Maple usually has a handsome color show, but this year it was particularly brilliant!

This is a relatively dull scene on the North Fork Toutle River.

The leaves of deciduous trees change colors due to a number of environmental factors. During the summer months, the leaf is green because the tree is manufacturing color chlorophyll through the process of photosynthesis. When the daylight wanes, and days become subtly shorter, photosynthesis begins to shut down. The cells at the confluence of the leaf start to divide and block the fluid and moisture from the roots of the tree. Once the food supply is cut off, the underlying tones of yellow and orange appear. This begins to reveal the natural pigments of the leaf and to spectators like us, we view this as the “fall color” period.

Chemicals often determine the colors a tree will display. Many of our local trees simply turn brown due to high percentage of tannins in the leaves. Carotenoids are one of the main chemicals in the leaves of the Big Leaf Maple and the Vine Maple. This year however, a more dominant Xanthophyll, an oxidized derivative of carotene, helped our Big Leaf Maples as well as a variety of other trees show brilliant gold color instead of the usual brownish-orange.

This Vine Maple just east of Toledo is showing its colors complete with the carotenoid chemicals that give the reds and oranges. These are the same chemicals that you would find in carrots.

One also should be asking why the Vine Maple here in Western Washington is not nearly as vibrant as its cousins in the mountains to the east. The answer is also weather. In the lower drainages of the Cowlitz, we don’t see nearly as much sunshine as most locations east of say, Morton. This is the same reason that makes New England famous for its fall color displays and Europe, which is covered with deciduous forests has a less than dynamic show. New England typically offers clear, cool weather in October while Europe has a persistent cloud cover during the fall months.

The Cottonwood, just to the right of the big Douglas Fir has an easier ability to show Xanthophyll, the chemical that allows us to see more of the yellow and gold pigments after the tree stops producing chlorophyll.

Regardless, how much we enjoyed our fall colors this year, we should always be asking what are the reasons for the beauty.

Evergreen Playhouse Performs “The Solid Gold Cadillac”

2008-10-28T16:43:00.000-07:00

Note...this is an article I wrote for the Town Crier newspaper. My editor chose not to run it in the latest edition.
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Who would have thought that a play, written in 1953 could serve as a parody for current events in 2008. Such is the case of “The Solid Gold Cadillac” originally penned by Howard Teichmann and George S. Kaufman. This corporate take on the Cinderella story is a endearing production hosted by the Evergreen Playhouse and Directed by D. Douglas Lukascik.

Lukascik admits that his background with the play was less than romantic. “When I was born, my mom bought a television” he said of the way movies have played a big part in his experience in the theater.

The story centers around the Board of Directors of “General Products” who are putting the squeeze on shareholders and quickly chipping away at corporate ethical standards using 13 local actors. In addition, they fully expect contracts and favoritism from 39 year business veteran and former GP Board Director Edward L. McKeever (played by Michael Rust). He took an advisory position at the Pentagon and is in prime position to sweeten the General Products bottom line. Much to the chagrin of the GP Board, members, he is determined to play by the rules in Washington.

The General Products Board of Directors include T. John Blessing ton (Marke Pendleton), Clifford Snell (Paul Gisi), Warren Gille (Dean Phillips), Alfred Metcalf (Fred Brattin along with Mrs. Laura Partridge (played by Theresa Hilliard.

The Board of Directors include T. John Blessington (Mark Pendleton), Alfred Metcalf (Fred Brattin), Warren Gillie (Dean Phillips) and Clifford Snell (Paul Gisi). They have many humorous moments and situations that boarder on slapstick. The character of Snell makes the audience want to begin a chorus of hisses at times for his brutal tactics to keep the situation comfortable.

The production has many clever moments including an ironic line or two by McKeever about life in Washington. “If you are not honest here, they catch you” he described of his experience in D.C.

Edward L. McKeever played by Michael Rust trades theatrical scenes with Mrs. Laura Partridge played by Theresa Hilliard in “The Solid Gold Cadillac”.

“Cinderella” appears in the form of Mrs. Laura Partridge (played by Theresa Hilliard), an owner of 10 shares of General Products Stock and causes several chaotic and sensational circumstances while trying to be an advocate for the “little stockholder”

The Evergreen Playhouse is located at 226 W. Center Street in Centralia. The Solid Gold Cadillac started on October 24th and will be playing Friday, October 31st, Sat. November 1st and Sunday, November 3rd as well as the following weekend of November 7th, 8th and 9th. Friday and Saturday performance begin at 8:00pm while Sunday’s feature at special matinee performance at 2:00pm.

Tickets are available at Book & Brush in Downtown Chehalis and Sterling Savings in Centralia, Santa Lucia Coffee Roasters in addition to the Evergreen Playhouse. They are $15 for evening performances and $10 for afternoon shows.

In addition, on Wednesday, November 5th, a special “Pay What You Will” performance will start at 7:30pm.

Take in Loowit Falls and the View of a Volcano

2008-10-26T11:46:00.000-07:00

The weather and my schedule gave me a break last week. My last adventure in the Enchantments as October began, ended in rain. Within 72 hours, it amounted to 2 plus feet of snow in the elevations above 6,000 feet. My favorite trails are now pretty much out of service for most people.

As the sun came out last week, snow in the lower elevations melted to a minimum. It was then, that I remembered a 1.75 mile section of trail that I had never hiked at the base of our neighborhood volcano.

Mt. Adams shows up behind the rocky slopes of Mount St. Helens.

It was in 2004, as a guest of the U.S. Geological Survey that I stood on the precipice of 200 foot tall Loowit Falls, one of two creeks that drain the crater of Mount St. Helens. While the non-permitted and credentialed individual is not allowed at the top of the falls, the purchase of a monument pass at Johnston Ridge Observatory allows an individual to hike to within 75 meters of the base of the falls.

The top of Loowit Falls taken on September 8th, 2004 when I was a guest of U.S.G.S. Scientists. Two weeks later, Mount St. Helens began its latest eruption.

The weather at lower elevations was perfect on the day of my hike, but the east winds of the Upper Toutle Lake Valley were in full force. The most defined canyons of the Cascades become funnels for air movement sometimes pushing 30 to 90mph, winds depending on the pressure gradient from east of the Cascades to the west. Occasionally, a beautiful day will have its challenges when the telltale haze shows on the north side of Mount St. Helens. On my most recent hike, the 30 to 40 MPH winds literally took my breath away in exposed locations and at one point made it very difficult to safely round the Devil’s Elbow.

East winds blow volcanic dust into the air in the Upper Toutle Lake Valley making my hiking conditions less than perfect.

From Johnston Ridge, hike east on the Boundary Trail #1, a little over 2 miles and around the Devil’s Elbow to the junction with the Truman Trail. Head down into the valley below using a natural route through a set of 1980 debris piles known as Hummocks that filled the drainage just west of Spirit Lake. It is now another 3 miles to the junction of the Willow Springs Trail #216F. Turn south (toward the volcano) for less than a mile, you will junction with the Loowit Trail #216 and turn east for a mile. All the trail junctions are well marked. A ¼ mile spur trail to the base of Loowit Falls will take you as close as the geology will allow to the base of the falls. Please be careful, as the banks of the canyon are extremely unstable.

Loowit Falls drops just about 200 feet from the crater of Mount St. Helens to the North Fork Toutle River Valley.

In all, the hike is 7 miles out and back (14 miles total). There are no alternate routes back to Johnston Ridge. Much of the route is gentle and flat as you cross the alien pumice plain at the base of Mount. St. Helens. While crossing the plain, I observed four elk and had a close encounter with a Mountain Bluebird.

Three bull elk dot the pumice plain landscape.

Here in this future rain forest, a Mountain Bluebird has found perfect, albeit temporary habitat.

You will have until November 9th to get this hike in as Johnston Ridge is slated to close that day. If weather allows, you could conceivably complete this hike from the Hummocks, but that adds another 8 miles and camping is not allowed anywhere along the route.

The headwaters of the North Fork Toutle River begins in the barren pumice plain just north of Mount St. Helens.

For those that can’t get to the base of the falls this autumn, start planning ahead for next summer. Just be warned, there is always a lot of water in the valley early in the hiking season.

The May 18th 1980 landslide scraped the upper ridge, denuding it of vegetation. Heavy rains continue to change the landscape.

If the wildlife, waterfall and harsh landscape doesn’t intrigue you, consider the magnetism a volcano has on people all over the world. The only person I encountered on the modestly traveled route was from Australia. He greeted me “there is another life form out here”. I asked him where he was going and he responded “as far up the volcano as I can get”.

Large Boulders slid several miles north of Mount St. Helens during the eruption and landslide of May 18th, 1980. Spirit Lake contributes contrasting colors.

Loowit Falls is the closest you can get to the crater of Mount. St. Helens. In fact, I found it fascinating that just a few hundred feet above you at the top of the falls is the crater of one of the most active volcanoes in recent years. I sat on one of the many dacite boulders along the top of Loowit Creek to eat lunch and took in the view of a volcano; the landscape that it created and will change again in the future.

World Class Scenery at the Enchantments

2008-10-03T09:10:00.000-07:00

It was back in 2006 as I was surfing through the regional wilderness programs that I stumbled onto the web page of the Wenatchee National Forest. It told of a wilderness area that was so sensitive that it was limited to permit entry only. Initially put off by the formality, I wrote off the Enchantment Lakes area of the Alpine Lake Wilderness area as a place I wasn’t really interested in.

Fall colors collide with scars of a forest fire nearly a decade old in Snow Creek Canyon.

This year, inundated by magazine articles and web posts of experiences in the basin, I finally decided that I would have to see it for myself. I went through the permit process which was a mere formality and the cost at $3 per day which includes parking at the trailhead is less than buying a daily Northwest Forest Pass.

The photographer and writer on the trail home on Thursday, October 2nd, 2008.

The catch is this, 60 people are allowed to camp in the greater Enchantments area. Only a small number of those actually get to camp in the highest basin, an area of serene alpine, granite shrouded creeks, ponds and lakes between 6,700 and 7700 feet in elevation. Permits are accepted beginning February 20th and most days of the summer are filled early. When I applied for my permit in early summer, I had two advantages. One, I was going to come after the high visitation season and two, I was going in the middle of the week rather than the weekend. Event then, camping in the upper most basin was not available; That is until I arrived at the Levenworth Ranger District Office to pick up my permit.

Granite Islands protrude above the waters of Lower Snow Lake in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness Area.

My strategies were carefully thought out to maximize what little amount of time I had. Most recommendations include a minimum of four days. I had three and a partner whose fitness level might be a challenge. The plan was to hike in, 6.5 miles to Snow Lake and set up base camp. On day two, we would hike up to the Enchantments and wander.

The upper end of Nada Lake quietly wakes up before sunrise.

My mind raced as the information specialist at the ranger district office offered us and “Enchantment permit”, the crown jewel of overnight wilderness experiences in Washington. I knew even my fitness level would be extremely challenged by such a one day endeavor. I was too locked in to my own planning to change entry points that might allow for such flexibility.

Prusik Peak and the Enchantment Peaks (also known as "The Temple") tower over the lake basin of the same name.

As it was, my partner and I slogged to Nada lake, a mile short of our original goal. The trail begins four miles out of Levenworth on Icicle Creek Road at 1800 feet. Five and a half miles and three major switch-backing, elevation gaining, grinding miles later, we arrived at Nada Lake with just enough time to set up camp before dark. This was short of our goal and during high season, this kind of accommodating choice would be frowned upon. Every camp site is spoken for by permit, but on this late September night, we were alone at both lakes.

The long end of Leprechaun Lake in the Enchanted Lakes Basin resides in fall color uner McClellan Peak.

A pile of rocks mark the trail route.

I have to say right up front that fitness levels need to be high for this hike. After traversing the lower portion to Nada Lake, my partner decided he didn’t have the physical capabilities needed for the days hike into the upper most basin, (as it turns out, a very good choice) so I set out at first light. I Passed the Snow Lakes and then to the final 1,200 foot granite face, I hiked and climbed. Some times, granite cliffs with hand and foot-holds were as high as 30 to 40 feet had to be ascended with hand over hand “bouldering”, challenging, but not technical rock climbing. As I approached the rim, the trail became all granite and no soil. It was marked by the strategic piles of rocks.

You have to love the 70-plus percent of silica that is in granite. That makes the rock essentially 70%, rough cut glass, so gripping the rocky trail is much easier than it sounds. Anyone that has done any hiking in the Sierra-Nevada (Lake Tahoe, Yosemite and Sequoia) can probably relate.

I had two goals for the day. One (very child-like I admit) to see mountain goats at close proximity (not ½ mile away like in the Goat Rocks Wilderness) and two, to catch some glowing gold Western Larch and add them to the photo possibilities of my late season visit.

The trail went between thick stands of golden larch.

The first goal was met the moment I crested the top of the rim when two Mountain goats were right in the middle of the trail picking lichen off of the rocky surface. There was no getting around them so I waited and moved slowly. Eventually, I followed them on the trail to a place where there was space to safely get around with minimal disturbance.

These Mountain Goats were on the trail as I approached Lake Vivian in the Enchantment Lakes.

The second goal was right in front of me as I wandered the Enchantments; A series of ponds and lakes that were inter-connected by a small stream that ran from the Upper basin near Isolation Lake to tarns and small water boddies to the lowest at Lake Viviane. At that point, the water dropped in dramatic fashion clear down to Snow Lake on its way to the Wenatchee River via Icicle Creek at Levenworth some 7,000 feet and 10 miles down stream. There were so many angles, so much art to compose that it was with near sadness that I had to consider how little time I had to spend there. Sometimes I was driven to near tears by the awesome beauty and at least one time I thought how my camera will seem worthless after this trip, because it captured the pinnacle of beauty on this one trip.

The fall color of Western Larch contrast the pure waters of Lake Vivian in the Enchantment Lakes.

Now I consider the lessons learned. The first of which is respect the time needed to truly experience this place. Planning and obtaining the needed permits is essential. I would suggest entering the Enchantment Basin via the Stuart Lake Trail after staying the night at Colchuck Lake . The next morning ascend Asgard Pass and drop into the Upper Basin of the Enchantment Lakes. Spend at least one night among the Enchantments and then drop to Snow or Nada Lake for your last night in the area. Depart via the Snow Lakes trail. Of course this requires a shuffle of vehicles or a full-blown beg for a ride to the Lake Stuart Trailhead, but those are logistical problems that will pale to the overall experience.

Little Annapurma towers above an island in Perfection Lake. Western larch give the scene color.

As I wandered among the pure waters and granite spires, I met and talked with people who had come to see this world class scenery from all over the globe. Three were from England and one camped next to Lake Viviane that hailed from Virginia. In a hushed conversation he told me he was already planning his return trip to this place that cast a very pleasurable spell on him.

A scenic shot of Prusik Peak and Lake Viviane in the Enchantment Lake Basin.

Coldwater Peak Feels Wild Within Sight of the Highway

2008-09-26T17:39:00.000-07:00

This wasn’t going to be my first time up Coldwater Peak, but a friend at work showed interest in climbing the peak and dogged me throughout the summer for a hike to the venerable site of a now absent fire lookout. When our mutual schedules finally came together on a date, our group swelled from two to seven people including my two boys.

My youngest son Jared hikes up the last switchbacks on Coldwater Peak.

The hike to Coldwater Peak could actually start in two locations. The easiest begins at Johnston Ridge Observatory at the end of Highway 504, 52 miles east of Castle Rock. The second is the South Coldwater trail #230 at mile post 45 along Highway 504. I recommend the Boundary Trail #1 trail from Johnston Ridge over the South Coldwater route. The trail is in much better condition, especially as you enter the more remote areas of South Coldwater Ridge.

Two years ago, when I tried to reach Coldwater Peak from the western route, the trail had washed out in a glacial cirque. In addition, the trail can be difficult to find in a few places. One account I read this summer indicated that confusion led one hiker to go cross country by line of sight. Admittedly, it is tempting as pre-eruption logging roads carve up the landscape and appear to lead the unsuspecting hiker right to the base of the peak. By congressional legislation, the area is reserved for scientific use and by definition, any off-trail travel is against the law and subject to citation.

Mt. Margaret highlights the rugged country around St. Helens Lake.

This hike does require a monument pass (covered by annual and lifetime federal passes) which is purchased at Johnston Ridge. Rangers understand that hikers are often on the trail long before the tourist public, therefore it is considered an “honor system”. Simply explain that your hike started early and then go purchase or present your passes that support the facilities.

The easiest route leaves Johnston Ridge and winds around the Devil’s Elbow. A piece of trail that challenges phobias hikers might have with heights. After turning the corner onto a deposit of hummocks left by the collapse and landslide of Mt. St. Helens in 1980, the hiker climbs to a gentle plateau where the first significant views of Spirit Lake begin.

Kyle takes a break above St. Helens Lake and Mt. Rainier can be seen in the background.

It is from here to the top of a ridge overlooking St. Helens Lake that I consider the most difficult stretch of the hike. There is little to no shade and constant exposure to the sun as you climb near 1,000 vertical feet over a mile. Preparing for sun exposure in the rain forest climate is an important preparation component for any hiker. Once reaching the top of this crest, the trail finds a delicate route along the slender ridgeline and at one point, actually crosses through a natural void in the geology.

The trail finds a natural route through the volcanic dike. The view through the “Arch” includes a look at Mt. Adams, 35 miles to the east.

As our group spread out, some nearly took a wrong turn at the junction of the South Coldwater #230 trail. They couldn’t initially find the needed trail and saw the word “Coldwater” on the sign. They assumed that was the way to go. Due to a large area of compacted soils and wildlife trails that quickly disappear, it is difficult to find Boundary Trail. At the junction, continue straight, veer to the right slightly and the typical worn tread will come into view about 20 yards ahead.

From this point, it is only about another mile to the summit of Coldwater Peak; Half of that distance is gentle topography. At the spur junction. A smaller, less visible trail departs left and switchbacks up the side of the peak. It delivers you to a USGS communications station at an elevation of 5,727 feet and the former site of one of Southwest Washington‘s 33 fire lookouts.

Huckleberry Bushes present a rusty red that contrast the blues of St. Helens Lake. The silver logs in the lake were deposited by the 1980 eruption of Mt. St. Helens.

In all, the out and back hike is slightly more than 13 miles and call me a fool when I asked my group what was the most difficult portion, to a person they all chose the last half mile.

On this day, the weather was perfect. 65 to 75 with a few fluttering clouds here and there. It was the sound in the air that made the trip predictably enjoyable. It was mid-September and the beginning of the elk rut combined with a availability of huckleberries to make the return hike just as enjoyable as the accent. Several bull elk produced annual calls that made you feel like you were in an extra wild place despite being in almost constant view of a state highway.

Too Much Football, Not Enough Me

2008-09-21T08:43:00.001-07:00

It was a tough week to choose what local high school football game to attend as a sportswriter for the “Town Crier”. Generally fairness to the six athletic programs that I cover is the trump card. This week, it was Napavine. The short drive to Tiger rival Adna was an excellent opportunity to cover the Tigers in an important match-up.

A classic Friday night scene from a classic venue on the "Hill" at Adna west of Chehalis, Washington.

It got ugly in the 3rd and temptation called. There was Winlock with their new found football prowess and a chance to see Toledo prove themselves against powerhouse Montesano. So much local football and not enough of me.

I departed for Winlock and arrived to find a 33-0 and bad news about Mike Ayon. Six miles away, there was a close game in progress the last I had heard. Toledo had Montes’ hands full. So back into the car I jumped and went a few miles east of Interstate 5.

What I found in Toledo was a Montesano team that was a machine and wore the Indians out in a business-like fashion. They scored three additional touchdowns and dominated while I was there. It was a abysmal night for the four Lewis County football teams in our circulation area, but the two Cowlitz County teams won big games.

The bottom line is that a little knowledge is a precarious thing. I now know the kids and coaches from six schools. I am proud to watch their accomplishments and get excited at their progress, improvement and hopes in the rest of the season.

The Winlock coaches and team meet on the sidelines during their September 12th game against Ocosta.

If you haven’t been out to catch one of our fantastic fall Friday night Football games, now is the time. From the amazing sunset in Onalaska in week one to the near full moon in Winlock in week two to the Americana of Adna’s “Hill” in week three, my tour of our local fall high school sports scene is of intrinsic value that should be shared! Come and enjoy it with me!

Lakes Trail Along Coldwater Lake Provides Gentle Topography

2008-09-21T08:28:00.000-07:00

There are times, and hopefully many when you have to adjust your hikes to your partner. It is nearly impossible to find a hiking partner with your same physical condition and trail values. Hikes generally fit into three categories for me. There are the short, boring ones, the moderate with modest interest and those that climb to the highest levels with the greatest views. Unfortunately, few of my potential hiking partners have my physical condition and or share my interest of alpine settings.

Geology and Minnie Peak combine for a great landscape diversity along the shores of Coldwater lake.

My dear wife shares my values , but not my physical condition or my longing to reach the highest elevations. To share any trail time with her, I must find trails in either category 1 or 2. There is also the factor of making one feel good about their accomplishments, therefore I chose the higher level.

In my data bas of trails, I found one that fit our mutual needs. The first 5 miles of the “Lakes Trail” is flat, and relatively gentle. It has spectacular scenery and is only about an hour away from the area.

Alders along South Coldwater Ridge provide a nice reflection in the quiet lake water.

The Lakes Trail is actually Trail #211 which ventures into the Mt. Margaret Backcountry of the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument. It refers to the eastern high lakes of Snow, Shovel and Obscurity, but for our purposes, it may as well mean Coldwater Lake itself.

Spud Mountain rises on the west side of the Toutle River Valley with Coldwater Lake in the foreground.

The trail leaves from near the Coldwater Lake boat dock and follows the shore to the east side of the lake where it continues to follow Coldwater Creek into the high country. As you leave what few visitors there are on the developed side of the lake, plan on experiencing the quiet side of wild this fall. While is has been a poor year for huckleberries, the Evergreen genre supplied many moments of natural refreshment with some berries larger than any in my recent memory. Second, the next few weeks will supply natural drama as the area elk populations communicate with bugles that seem so sink into the soul.

Evergreen Huckleberries were both plenty and large along the trail.

Laurie partaking of tasty natural bounty.

One note of caution for any that hike this trail in the next few weeks, is that hunters sometimes use the area for their sport as well. Dressing accordingly is advised. On our recent hike, we saw one hiker and two boats on the lake where it was quiet enough to hold a conversation from shore to boat in a normal tone of voice.

What people need to understand is the concept of perspective. Most have observed Coldwater Lake from the viewpoints, boat docks or the decks of the former Coldwater Ridge Visitor Center but as you head east and view the lake looking west, entire new scenes of Washington scenery present themselves. Spud Mountain looms west of the alder groves, and South Coldwater Ridge seems to grow as the lake shrinks. The water in the fall is clear which is often no the case in the spring or summer.

Laurie crosses one of the most rugged portions of the trail at the base of a massive natural landslide.

At the end of the lake, we came to the junction of the South Coldwater Trail (#230) and followed it 30 yards to a bridge over Coldwater Creek where we appropriately ate lunch.

While this portion of the Lakes Trail is long, there are few opportunities to beat the scenery with a tail that gains little elevation.

Find Peace at the North Jetty in Ocean Shores

2008-09-21T08:13:00.000-07:00

When I moved to Washington from Oregon in 2004, there were a number of culture shocks. The lack of access to rivers and shorelines was just the beginning, but nowhere is the culture more intrusive than when trying to find a quiet place on an ocean beach.

I recently took my entire family on a exploration to the Ocean Shores area along the northwest entrance to Gray’s Harbor. I had not been to Ocean Shores since the late 70s when my brother owned a seafood store downstairs from his attic apartment. The growth over the past 20 years has been remarkable if not alarming.

Our first stop was at Ocean City State Park to access the beach. I was relieved to see the “no-motorized vehicles beyond this point” signs on the trail to the surf, but forgot about the freeway that is the beach in Washington. Sure enough, once we hiked the 200 meters to the sand, we could see the constant cross traffic that included cars, trucks, motorcycles, ATVs and even large groups of horses. We walked to the surf’s edge as my youngest dodged the small waves only to find ourselves repositioning for traffic or watching for our own safety.

The beach at Ocean City State Park was an absolute zoo of motorized and non-motorized activity.

After about 20 minutes at this location, it was time to move on. We drove to the southern edge of the peninsula where the north jetty juts out into open waters to protect the entrance to Gray’s Harbor. Here, we found a small section of beach where beach traffic did not exist as if it was restricted. There were plenty of people on the beach, but as far as the eye could see, there was no road traffic creating a pleasant beach experience. Families were flying kites, throwing Frisbees and building sand castles.

A look west on the north jetty at Ocean Shores.

As if were an added bonus, the jetty itself supplied many private locations to sit, contemplate, cuddle and enjoy the power of the scene at hand. The large rocks also offered a haven from the winds.

The view of the harbor entrance shows a tug and freight departing for open waters.

I also enjoyed hiking,/climbing out towards the end of the jetty. Not something that I would recommend in rough weather, but for me, it provided a few unique photo angles and a little badly needed exercise.

Looking north from the jetty at Ocean Shores.

To reach the north jetty, take Highway 101 to Hoquiam and follow the signs to Ocean Shores. You will take SR 109 and then turn south on SR 115. While it is easy enough to say, drive south, it is a thin peninsula that runs north to south and getting lost is nearly impossible, your most effective route in Ocean Shores is on Ocean Shores Boulevard, but there are some twists and turns in the process. The highway will turn right onto Damon Road and go about ¼ mile before you need to take a left onto Point Brown Ave. Then a quick right onto Ocean Shores Boulevard. Drive to the end of the road where you will find a parking lot and what appears to be a big pile of rocks.

On our visit, the weather couldn't have been more gentle or mild. If boulders could only talk!
Just up the road, on SR 109, the City of Copalis restricts vehicles on its beaches. It might also be a good place to pull up a quiet stretch of beach, but for me, that is a trip for another day.

A "Perfect" Experience in the Goat Rocks Wilderness

2008-08-24T19:37:00.000-07:00

It was just about a year ago when my boys and I stood on the divide between the Jordan Basin and Goat Creek in the Goat Rocks Wilderness and I showed them a fun 1 night 2 day loop from nearly the same place we started a shorter pack trip.

A waterfall drains Goat Lake with the high peaks watching from high above.

The opportunity came about to take my 10 year old on what amounted to a 3 day, 2 night backpacking trip from Snowgrass Flat to Goat Lake and down the Berry Patch route back to our vehicle. Dare I say the entire experience went perfectly? The days prior to the trip featured 1 to 2 inches of rain, but as we began our hike on Thursday afternoon, it drizzled on us for the first 20 minutes and then began the recovery process. No dust, no bugs! Rain does have its advantages!

A carpet of wildfires above Snowgrass Flat sit drenched under departing clouds after a couple days of rain.

Snowgrass Flat and the Lily Basin loop is probably one, if not the most popular trails in the Goat Rocks Wilderness and it doesn’t take much of a hiker to figure out why. There is nearly 10 miles of alpine scenery and views. In addition, it is easy enough that even hikers of a moderate fitness can enjoy its tremendous scenery with a one night stay. We even ran into one couple that began the loop at 8:00am and were on pace to finish it by about 2:00pm on Saturday afternoon. Not very enjoyable, but doable.

The headwaters of Jordan Creek flow west and then north into Johnson Creek and the Cowlitz River. Mt. St. Helens is in the distance.

To get to Snowgrass Flat, take USFS Road #21 off of Highway 12 just west of Packwood. Travel south on the decent forest road for 17 miles and then take a left on the USFS #2150 road. It is well marked by proper signage. There are two trailheads just ½ mile apart from each other and are even connected by a short access path for horses and those that do the complete loop.

Mt. Adams makes an appearance as the clouds begin to clear.

I recommend a counter clockwise loop (start at Snowgrass hikers) for those hiking the full loop for a more gentle introduction to the high country. If you want scenery as soon as possible, I would recommend going the Berry Patch route to at least the summit of the Jordan Basin.

Alpine flowers combine with a waterfall in another dramatic scene of the Goat Rocks Wilderness.

Our first night found us hiking above the flower gardens of Snowgrass Flat where we found a campsite at about 6,400 feet. After setting up base, we got the opportunity to explore “light pack“; an added benefit of arriving early in the backcountry. We stumbled onto a scene of vivid dreams as we meandered onto the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) #2000 from the Snowgrass #96 trail and turned north (left) at the junction. On this evening, the flower display in the first mile rivaled anything I have observed in the northwest. In addition, the rusty hues of the volcanic peaks colored by thousands of years of hydro-thermal activity combined with a moody and variable cloud layer to present an ever changing production before our eyes.

Western Pasque Flowers accent the foreground under Old Snowy Mountain which sports fresh snow in the Goat Rocks Wilderness.

Wildflowers carpet the alpine reaches of the Goat Rocks Wilderness while mists cover the upper Cispus River Valley in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest.

A chilly (frost on the ground and fresh snow above 7,000 feet) Friday morning found us hiking just a few miles to the north on the #86, Lily Basin Trail to Goat Lake. Over each new hillock, lay a new meadow of wildflowers and gurgling stream or streams under the watchful stare of the high peaks above. By noon, we had set up camp and proceeded on a short off-trail adventure to solve a curiosity. As suspected, we sat upon a ridge and overlooked a rugged scene of yet another glacially sculpted, alpine valley. While taking in that splendor, we watched as a family of mountain goats inched closer and closer to the lens of my camera.

Yet another glacial valley greeted us on top of a ridge during on off-trail scramble.

A family of mountain goats moved slowly along the side of a ridge as we watched.

After lunch, we hiked two more miles to the top of another ridge near Hawkeye Point and looked over another glacial basin to not so distant Mt. Rainier.

Wildflowers color the slopes above the Lily Basin Trail in Goat Rocks Wilderness.

Mt. Rainier dominates the landscape to the north of a ridge near Hawkeye Point.

For its part, Goat Lake, at around 6,000 feet in a south facing glacial cirque (or caldera?), was still frozen. In fact, upon waking up on Saturday morning and walking the 100 yards to the lake shore at sunrise, I found a new layer of thin ice covering what little open water existed the night before. I should have known when I felt the stunningly cold breeze blowing into my face from up slope.

A fresh cover of thin ice greeted us in the little open waters of Goat Lake on Saturday morning.

Goat Lake, at just over 6,000 feet in elevation is still mostly frozen in late August.

Mid-morning, we packed up camp and began our accent up and over to the Jordan Basin. A few more miles and we would be back at our car. In all, I gave my son credit for 24 miles over the three days; About 15 of those with a full pack of 20 plus pounds.

My son Jared follows the trail through a hillside of wildflowers on the Goat Ridge Trail.

One thing to consider if you plan on any type of overnight hike in the Snowgrass/Berry Patch areas is that it is very busy, especially on weekends. There is a reason we started on Thursday (6 cars in the parking lot) and finished on Saturday (over 50 cars in the lot). Traditional camping sites are many, but on most weekends, those that arrive early in the day are more likely to have level ground to sleep on. We were the only tent at Goat Lake on noon Friday, but when we returned at about 4:30pm, over a half dozen tents had appeared on the most gentle ground in several miles of trail in either direction.

Mt. Adams is part of the light and color show at sunset as pictured from Goat Lake.

A very respectful moment occurred when we came back from our afternoon hike. A family of 5 from Bellevue had literally been waiting for us. There was a large piece of flat ground just adjacent to our tent and they needed space for two tents. Instead of just setting up camp, they wanted to secure our permission. “It is public land” I said, “I would really be not living by my own words if I said no”. We had many conversations that night and the next morning, next to the broken ice of Goat Lake.

Yours truly taking a brief dip into Goat Lake.

Out there, no matter how close another chooses to camp, everyone should already have their own solace .

Vanson Lake Couldn't Elude us Forever

2008-08-19T21:26:00.000-07:00

With temperatures near 90 degrees, hiking 17 miles in the Cascade foothills might seem like a less than reflective choice, but when thought through, it was a pretty good idea. It was the other elements that made our hike to Vanson Lake a fairly uncomfortable experience.

The spur trail to the top of Vanson Ridge featured a nice wildfire garden.

Vanson Lake is a small piece of water in the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument. It is not however, located within the blast zone and three trails converge nearby to make it a central feature in a little known roadless area between the Green River to the south and the Cowlitz to the north.

Mt. Adams could be seen from the top of Vanson Peak. The area in front of Mt. Adams shows signs of the Mt. St. Helens blast zone.

There are several ways to reach Vanson Lake and the trails that form an area of almost complete serenity just south of Taidnaipam Park on the upper end of Riffe Lake. This is an area where you go for peace and solitude. While there is plenty of scenery, especially in the form of cascading creeks and waterfalls, don’t expect to see alpine scenery with picturesque scenes without significant effort.

Vanson Lake is located in a remote location at about 3,800 feet elevation.

That may change if you access the area from the Green River area where the Green River and Goat Mountain Trail junctions with the Goat Creek Trail. The routes out of the Green River Valley are on sout facing slopes in the Mt. St. Helens blast zone and would have been a miserable experience on this day. As it was, my 10 year old son and I hiked in the deep, cool, shaded woods alongside creeks that forced us to cross them on occasion; Sometimes in refreshing, bare feet.

My 10 year old son Jared crosses one of the many creeks along the trail to Vanson Lake.

To get there, turn onto Kosmos Road between Morton and Glenoma and follow the signs to Taidnapam Park. Cross the bridge over the Cowlitz River and turn right. Continue through an open gate (during fire season, this gate is often closed to protect private lands despite blocking access to public lands) and go for another mile or so, ignoring a couple of minor roads to the left. You will come to a three-way fork in the road, the one to the right is the main road while the middle fork is gated. Take the farthest turn to the left. This is now USFS road #2750. The Forest Service has placed a sign to clearly mark the way to the trailhead this summer. Drive for 4.5 miles to the trailhead.

Cascading streams are a common sight along the Goat Creek Trail.

For the first 4 miles, the trail follows tributaries of Goat Creek. This late in the summer, water levels are light as creeks tumble over impressive falls. At just under 4,000 feet, we ran into surprisingly large patches of snow, and more impacting, the swarms of bugs that can usually be associated with the woods shortly after snow melt. From some beautiful meadows, we started climbing again to the top of Vanson Ridge where an important junction of trails occurs.

By taking the USFS Road #25 south out of Randle (Hwy 131) and then taking USFS Road #26, to Ryan Lake and the Green River Horse Camp, several trails lead from USFS Road #2612 up Goat Mountain to Tumwater Mountain, Deadmans Lake and of course Vanson lake.

The trip from either location is a long day hike. I would suggest staying at least one night out to make the hike worthwhile.

As for us, the bugs really took away from our experience. Above 3,500 feet, stopping to enjoy scenery, crossing streams or taking a dip into Vanson Lake made for a miserable existence. Of course, that is the nature of dry, hot weather and hiking. While we hoofed what amounted to 17 miles on the hottest day of the year, we barely even noticed the heat in the deeply wooded canyon but we were very careful to drink an incredible amount of water to stay hydrated. A few early season huckleberries, blueberries and salmonberries supplemented what little lunch we ate at the lake.

Haze and smoke prevented a clear view of Mt. Rainier from the top of Vanson Ridge.

As a final insult, we hiked to the point of Vanson Peak at about 4,900 feet elevation. From there, views of Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier, Riffe Lake and the northern end of the Mount St. Helens blast zone greeted us. The haze and smoke made the entire region almost unrecognizable. Despite almost miserable conditions, you couldn’t help but feel good about the experience as a whole. The fact that we live in a region with such vast playgrounds readily available should make us all beam with pride!

Area Hunter Gives Thoughts on Bear Hunting

2008-08-19T08:46:00.000-07:00

Through a variety of conversations over the last couple of weeks, it became apparent that bear hunting is a fairly popular sport in our region. While there are not as many participants as during the elk and deer seasons, it only took a few days to track down an avid bear hunter.

MarioTroche of Mossyrock was glad to share stories and a couple of common sense tricks to find bears in our local area. Troche, who works for the Washington Department of Fish & Wildlife at the Mossyrock Hatchery also operates his own sideline business as a taxidermist where he has created models for education and outreach events for several state and federal agencies along with the Audubon Society. There is no hiding his affection for wildlife.

Mario Troche with one of his bear hunting prizes at the Southwest Washington Fair.

Troche says that he frequents the Winston Creek game unit just south of Mossyrock some evenings after work and on the weekends. “I like to hunt in the evenings from about 7pm to 11pm. When the birds start to roost, the bears come out”.

One area he likes to frequent are old abandoned homesteads where almost without exception, there are a few apple trees dropping their fruit. The bears of course are attracted by the sweet apples.

A second area is to find an old abandoned logging road that is becoming choked with blackberries. Troche says he tries to find an observation point where he can watch the bears eat a berry or two and then suspiciously look for danger. Hunting pressure has made bears very careful in our area. Troche believes that bears see far more humans than humans see of bears.

As a taxidermist, Troche says that the best pelts are harvested in October after a full season of nutrient gathering, but a quality pelts can also be found after hibernation by an alert and discerning hunter.

Troche had successful hunts in Alaska as bears were completing hibernation. He said that he passed on bears whose hides were less than perfect.

Many October hunts are actually in conjunction with deer season. Hunters looking for a more traditional fall prey, stumble across bear and change their plans. Troche related one such incident while he and a friend were hunting deer in the Blue Mountains. They came across a bear sunning himself on a rock and began stalking him. In the process of using a “predator call”, they attracted 2 other bears to the area within 30 minutes. Even with that success, they walked away empty handed but with a great story to tell.

In 1992, Washington voters passed I165 banning the practice of baiting and hunting with dogs. Troche admits that hunting has been made more challenging, but a bear permit is easy to obtain. The limit is now higher and prices have dropped. There is the potential for more bear hunters than ever in Washington and Troche advises new hunters to live by a “hunter ethic”. One specific to this sport is to make sure that sows with young cubs are left alone.

As much as he disagrees with some of the laws in place, he encourages all hunters to comply with the laws and go steps further and use good hunting ethics. Good words from a man that has made his living managing wildlife.

One Less Tool in the Belt for Firefighters

2008-08-11T13:54:00.001-07:00

Bump…there is the sound again of the Bush Administration butting in where they have no business. This time it is in the act of wildland firefighting.

A policy known as “wildland fire use” has been utilized by regionally managed forests based on the determination of local fire managers. It has been successful. Naturally ignited fires in wilderness areas that pose no threat to populations or infrastructure have been allowed to burn as a forest management apparatus. It is no secret that even wildland fire managers regard fire as a cost effective, management tool; one that they would prefer to keep on their belt. These fires are usually well behaved and take a small crew to monitor until natural events extinguish them. They cost about $50 per acre compared to $500 per acres to be fully contained and extinguished by firefighting forces.

Part of this policy was also being used in the name of safety. Some of these wilderness fires are in the most remote and unforgiving places in the west, yet the order by California Regional Forester Randy Moore back in early July says that we will fight and spend $500 an acre on every fire no matter what kind of threat (or not) it poses.

Perhaps vowing to pressure from local communities about smoke and health related problems caused by fires that are not aggressively fought are one of the reasons Moore took this action. He also cited the National preparedness level which is all but depleted after a month and a half of aggressive firefighting in California and other parts of the west. Perhaps he feared that one of the “wildland use fires” would blow up and suddenly threaten a community when there are no additional resources at a key moment. Regardless, rather than laying low on non-threatening fires, he intends on fighting every fire aggressively spending tax payer dollars and placing firefighters in harm’s way on dangerous fires.

Does this sound familiar?

Since 1910 and then especially in the 1930s when we really stared to become good at extinguishing every fire early in its quest to do important ecological work, we squished them. Didn’t that lead too much of the problem we have today?

Small enclaves throughout the west have become serious about fuels mitigation. It has to be a conscious and ethical integrated management plan. Maintaining the forest in the absence of the natural force of fire is a complicated issue with many sides that have little trust for the motives of the other. We must choose however, to allow fire to do its work or step-in as a well funded surrogate wherever fire can not be used. Now doesn’t that open up a Pandora’s political Box?

Woodward Bay Features Solitude Minutes from the Capital

2008-08-07T11:04:00.000-07:00

Obviously, I enjoy the high country and between now and mid-October, you will probably read frequently about my upper elevation adventures , but every now and then, I let my curiosity get the best of me.

Morning stillness in a small inlet off Woodward Bay.

If you look at a map, there are several peninsulas just north of Olympia . For years, I have wondered what is out there and this last weekend I solved at least part of the mystery. First and foremost, I visited Woodward Bay to see first hand some of the South Puget Sound views. In addition, I found a recreation community like no other. Kayaks were everywhere. This bay as well as a number of other public properties provide a hub to launch small water craft for exploration.
Several nature trails wander through stands of cedar and fir adjacent Woodward Bay.

There is also a nature trail that allows a walk through the forest adjacent to the bay itself. There are several views and ultimately, that vast amount of wildlife will occasionally pass by. I saw herons and working osprey among others. I could hear the calls of the harbor seals that were being watched by 4 Evergreen State College students. Their project was documenting the seals’ reactions to disturbance which included passing boats and other water craft.

A prominent sea bird takes a moment in Woodward Bay.

One of the most profound moments of the day was early. I completely forgot where I was as I stood and looked over a fog shrouded bay with the call of harbor seals and seagulls in the distance. I watched a beautiful black and silver Gardner snake slither away and then it hit me. I am 5 miles from Downtown Olympia. It felt more like 40.

To get to Woodward Bay , take the Port of Olympia exit off of I5 and turn left onto Plum Street and go straight for about five miles. The road changes names three times in the process, but that is not your concern. Follow the now East Bay Road through Priest Point City Park and continue on what becomes Boston Harbor Road . Take a right on Woodward Bay Rd. NE and continue past where you take quick left onto Libby and then a quick right back onto Woodward Bay Rd. for the last mile. Be aware of the bridge crossing the small bay because there are parking areas and very different opportunities on both sides.

Mt. Rainier towers over recreational craft in the Nisqually Reach at Tolmie State Park.

I was also able to visit a few other areas in the area I would recommend visiting. Try driving out to little Boston Harbor where you can rent a paddle boat, canoe or kayak and explore Budd Inlet. Just south of that location is Burfoot Park which allows beach access to the Inlet. Finally, I also wandered over to the Nisqually Reach and visited Tolmie State Park which also featured beach access.
There was no problem finding some great public spaces along the South Puget Sound beaches, forests and neighboring wetlands just a few miles outside of Washington ’s Capital City .

South Fork Tieton River

2008-07-29T06:39:00.000-07:00

This is how finding and accessing wilderness trails should be. Kudos to the Wenatchee National Forest! There are great roads leading in and it was no problem finding. There was a lot of recent maintenance on the trail and I suspect a lot of that belongs to the Backcountry Horsemen, but it looks like other crews as well. Clearly, this trail is maintained for the horsemen. I saw a total of 8 while seeing only two hikers. The trail itself is in good shape except for the way the horses turn the tread to a fine powder. It’s like walking on dry beach sand for the better part of 9 miles. In other words, I used a few muscles that have not been properly exercised this summer.

I caught a photo of this fast moving and rare mountain wildlife.

Keep in mind, the Conrad Meadows are an active grazing allotment and that means the presence of some free range cattle. Look to avoid the bulls.

One group of cows I met was right on the trail. They gladly yielded, but a large bull that was resting just adjacent to the path was not so accommodating. He did stand to greet me, but then proceeded to stare my way in a menacing fashion. I chose to be the one to yield, leaving the trail and finding my way through the woods for 50 yards or so until I was out of the attention range of the large animal.

Mt. Curtis Gilbert dominates the landscape above Conrad Meadows.

To reach the Conrad Meadows, take Highway 12 to east of Rimrock Lake and turn onto Tieton Lake Road. Go for about 6 miles and turn south on USFS Road #1000. You will drive for 7 miles on single lane pavement and then the road turns to a wider, but well conditioned gravel road. Signs point the way to Conrad Meadows with little or no required guesswork.

The upper watershed of the South Fork Tieton River drains a portion of the Goat Rocks Wilderness.

The trail starts in the meadows about 4,500 feet above sea level and spends the first 3 miles in an almost flat layout. The early views are stunning. Open meadows with patches of pine and fir provide a foreground for the rugged peaks of the Goat Rocks in the background. The scenes remind me of many photos and post cards that are placed into my memory of Colorado. Unfortunately, the amount of bug-killed timber that dots the lower elevations of this hike reminds me of places all over the west, which caused my mind to consider the debate about how to best manage such resources.
Lodgepole Pines have been killed by the Mountain pine beetle while other trees in the area were hit by the Spruce bud worm.

There is a major bridge were Conrad Creek joins the South Fork of the Tieton River.

After a couple of river crossings, the trail splits and begins a loop around a large cirque that forms the drainage of the South Fork Tieton River. I chose to turn left and go counter clockwise. Immediately, the trail started climbing, switch backing between two smaller creeks. One of them had a significant waterfall that caught my interest, but access for a photo looked pretty tough. About 30 or 40 minutes later of moderate uphill hiking, I found myself on the shores of Surprise Lake. I rapidly took off my boots and waded out into the crisp waters to watch fish jump and take in the spectacle under Conrad Mountain.

A salamander swam right under me during my dip into Surprise lake.

After the lake, there was about 30 minutes worth of brilliant, high mountain meadow scenery as you follow the natural give of the geology. The trail gradually dips into the forest with occasional stream drainages of interest, but largely, only modest flower gardens kept my attention from the doldrums of the slow decent.

A small creek cut a small gorge in the walls of the ccanyon.

Even though the weather was perfect for them, bugs were a minimal problem.
The scenery is great and I had a perfect day of weather. Overall I looked at this trail like an amusement ride where I had to wait in line way too long...there was a lot of hiking for a short period of class A scenery. I would try Snowgrass or Berrypatch before driving the extra hour to Conrad Meadows.

Beautiful Surprise Lake was a wonderful stop.

Hiking Silver Star

2008-07-29T06:37:00.000-07:00

Some places are special because of what they are supposed to be. Such is the case at Silver Star Mountain, a hiking area northeast of Vancouver in northeast Clark County.

The namesake of the area stands at just over 4,300 feet in elevation.

The difference at Silver Star comes from a combination of geology and biological history. The entire region was once an active volcano, but in 1902, the Yacolt Burn, a forest fire that took over 238,000 acres of vegetation with it changed the area. The ground became unstable and has resisted natural recovery . The net result is alpine scenery well below alpine elevations.

Ghosts from a historic forest fire still stand among young new trees.

In reality, hiking along the ridge around Silver Star reminded me a lot of hiking the Mt. Margaret Country area around Mount St. Helens. The main difference is that the Yacolt Burn was over a hundred years ago while the eruption of Mount St. Helens was a mere 28 years ago. When comparing the two, one realizes the level of heat and ferocity leveled upon this landscape by the 1902 Yacolt burn.

This week was the height of lower season at Silver Star.

The main difference is about 1000 feet in elevation. Most of the Mt. Margaret Backcountry is between 4,500 feet and 5,500 feet. Baldy Peak, the highest point I climbed to was just under 4,000 in elevation and the vegetation was strikingly similar to the aforementioned St. Helens area. Huckleberry, Blueberry and Salmonberries were the staple vegetation while prominent flowers included paintbrush, lupine, agoseris, columbine, spirea, penstemon and bunch berry among others. This year, the third week of July is near the height of the summer flower season at Silver Star. While my views were cut short by clouds in all directions, a good day will feature Mt. Hood, Mt. St. Helens and Mt. Adams as well as the Columbia River near Camas.

The view from most of the trail features a view down into Copper Canyon which drains the northwest part of the mountain.

I had some problems finding the trailhead but in my defense, the trailhead I wanted to hike was inaccessible by my car. Upon reaching a key junction, I asked a gentleman in a Ford Explorer about the condition of the road. He said that his vehicle just about bottomed out just reaching Copper Creek let alone reaching the titled Silver Star trailhead just a couple miles from the 4,390 feet peak. He also informed me that there were multiple signs warning of wash-outs. It was on to plan B.

Me and Silver Star over my right shoulder.

Do plenty of research ahead of time, but I had two maps with me and they were of limited help, especially in the towns of Amboy and Yacolt. I chose to enter the area via the Bluff Mountain trail about 5 miles farter east. I suppose I had better start from the beginning. A good place to start would be at the town of Yacolt. Reaching Yacolt is easiest via Cedar Creek Road from Interstate 5 in Woodland. Drive to Amboy and follow the signs to Yacolt. Once in Yacolt turn left and go 2 blocks where you will take a right on Railroad Avenue and then drive for 3 miles. Take a left on East Fork Lewis River Road and drive 7 miles to Sunset Campground. At the campground, turn right and follow the USFS Road #41 for about 7 miles to the highest point. Just before it takes a sharp left turn down the other side of the ridge, you should see a parking area. Let’s just call it a clearing in the dirt. There are no signs, just a beautiful view with the opportunity to walk on what looks like a “jeep” road that straddles the St. Helens and Mt. Adams Ranger Districts of the Gifford Pinchot National Forest.

Near Sunset Campground, some falls of the East Fork of the Lewis River were a nice diversion from the search for the trailhead.

The road peters out in about 2 miles and becomes a handsome, well-maintained trail. At first it is under the cliffs of Bluff Mountain and then wanders through two stands of Noble Fir before working behind or south of Little Baldy Peak. I chose the latter as my end point due to time. Like many before me, I made the 100 meter scramble up the talus slopes to the summit and ate some lunch. Due to my navigational errors earlier in the day, I would not be able to go any further towards Silver Star Mountain today. After all, it would just be another fantastic two miles or so to the summit. I turned, once again determined to return.

"Little Baldy" in the center of the photo is a prominent point near Silver Star. It is also the peak that I climbed.

I had heard that this was one of the greater Vancouver’s backyard playgrounds, but on this day I did not see another human being until I reached the parking lot.

Silver Star Mountain and the area around it are a real surprise. Almost from the start you are in what appears to be an alpine environment with impressive views and scenery for the entire hike. The day doesn’t have to be perfect, but enjoyment of the landscape will meet your expectations.

Mt. Rainier National Park, An Accidential Urban Experience

2008-07-21T09:41:00.000-07:00

Sunday morning, I realized why I am so careful about where and when I visit certain places in the Cascades. Mt. Rainier National Park on a beautiful Sunday afternoon was going to be costly.

Now call me snobbish, but you have to laugh! A fifteen minute wait because nobody has cash and everyone uses credit cards, at the entrance gate just to show off my annual pass. Every pull-out and trailhead was full of vehicles. Then there is the stop and go traffic while trying to find a parking space at Paradise. Next there are the numbers of people gawking at the power of Mt. Rainier above from the security of pavement and concrete at the visitor center. This time I didn’t even try to negotiate the poorly arranged gift shop that resembled a crowded retail outlet on December 23rd.

For someone that sees as much trail and serenity as I do, it was comical.

Among them, there are the National Park Visitors that I learned to respect so much. They are the ones that ask questions at their intellectual peril, they seek knowledge about our great natural places and are the ones that seek experience beyond the shallow tourist shops and windows. Most likely, those were the vehicles at the trailheads.

It was a reminder to me about the choices and values that I have. I am hoping that land managers continue to carefully plan for our most valued landscapes. The rumors that special places like Mt. Rainier had fallen out of fashion are clearly false. The true outdoor experience is missing for those that don’t seek it. Perhaps, this is what should be planned into every visit to a National Park; an accidental wilderness experience.

Spontaneous Camping Is Endangered

2008-07-21T08:43:00.000-07:00

You would have thought that 15 years working around some of the most popular natural attractions on the west coast that I would have learned. To even think that you could leave your house at 2:00pm on a Saturday in mid-July and expect to find a campsite in our near one of our nation’s premier National Parks was foolish.

This is the story that led to our ride on the Mt Rainier Scenic Railroad. I just wanted to be somewhere other than home. We have been home all week. Let’s do something and if done right, it may only cost $15 plus gas.

As we entered Mt. Rainier National Park, we clearly saw the signs that all stated “All Campgrounds full”. Good call on their part; bad on my part, although it was not completely unanticipated. My plan had a back-up. We turned around and headed into the neighboring National Forest. At Big Creek Campground, the gate was partially closed with a sign that read, you guessed it, “Campground Full”.

Eagle Peak at sunset.

Now we were headed east on Skate Creek Road toward Packwood where I would check to see if La Wis Wis Campground shared a similar condition and to a final option at a private campground in the area.

As it turned out, dispersed camping saved my stern once again. Driving along, I noticed an intriguing pull-out that had a van in it, but no tents or sign of an active camp. When I pulled in, I asked the folks if they were camping and I was returned a rather unusual “you are crazy” look and the reply I was hoping for.

Our campsite was beautiful along side the Nisqually River right next to a sign that indicated we were as close to being in the National Park without actually being in it. We had several hundred yards of beach to enjoy, and at one point, I dipped my feet into the river which I am sure was inside the National Park.

Jared, Laurie and Kyle at our campsite next to the Nisqually River.

Now, unlike hundreds of cars that pass by that little nothing pull-out along Skate Creek Road, it now means something to us. We were intimate with another small piece of ground in Western Washington. It was far better than another summer evening spent in front of a television and oh ya, it only cost us gas!

While I was able to make good on one of my freedoms; the ability to leave, relatively unplanned and find a place in the woods where I can set up camp it is rapidly becoming a thing of the past Adjacent to the outdoor recreation-crazy populations of Seattle and Portland, it is tough to do. Reservations for a piece of ground on public lands are becoming widespread and to the determent of those inclined to be spontaneous.
The Nisqually River and Eagle Peak.

Take a Ride on the Mt. Rainier Scenic Railroad

2008-07-21T06:34:00.000-07:00

Finding a train to ride in this area is not a difficult endeavor. Finding one under one of the northwest’s most famous mountain peaks is just an extra step. There are three prominent tourist steam railroads in our area. The Chehalis-Centralia Steam Train presents a look at railroading history in Western Lewis County. In Amboy, the Chelatchie Prairie Railroad offers an excursion from Yacolt to Lucia with a 30 minute stop at Moulton Falls State Park in Northern Clark County.

Thanks or no thanks to the storms of November 2006 and a damaged trestle over the Nisqually River, the Eastern Lewis County community of Mineral is now the full-time host of the Mt. Rainier Scenic Railroad.

Mt. Rainier looms behind the open air viewing car of the Mt. Rainier Scenic Railroad's excursion train.

Today, we rode this excursion train because some of our best friends gave the four of us a gift certificate as their guests.

According to volunteer Conductor Brain Brundridge, the Mineral location, although more complicated to find over the Elbe station along Highway 7 in Pierce County, has no shortage of railroad ridership. “We get a lot from the local campgrounds” he said of the lakeside facilities next to the renowned Mineral Lake. It generally runs from about 120 to 140 people per excursion but has been as high as 210. The previous route from Elbe to Morton featured a stop in Mineral, but not an opportunity for all of the guests in Mineral to get on board. There are now two trips scheduled each Saturday and one on Sunday. A 2:00pm trip scheduled for Thursday afternoons is powered by historic diesel power and may be subject to special group reservation.

Volunteer Conductor Brian Brundridge, stationed at the front of the train, is the “eyes” for his engineer as the locomotive pushes the train from behind.

Might I say, there is a lot more scenic in the Mt. Rainier Scenic Railroad then the Elbe -Mineral Route which featured farms and backyards along much of the route. The new route goes south out of Mineral toward Morton through mature forests, open meadows and adjacent to rivers and wetlands. On the far southern end of the excursion, you are dramatically backed over an impressive, curving trestle that spans a deep canyon of the Tilton River. Regardless, if you had ridden the Mt. Rainier before, the current route should not be missed. The next couple of months may be the last opportunity as the repair of the Nisqually crossing is anticipated to be complete this October.

The Mt. Rainier Scenic Railroad excursion train crosses the “trestle” between Mineral and Morton.

The Mt. Rainier Scenic Railroad is a non-profit, preservation organization disguised as a tourist railroad. It is more like a group of steam railroad enthusiasts bent on preserving railroad history and allowing the public to enjoy it. There are about 35 volunteers and four full-time employees that keep the operation running despite taking mother nature’s best punches each year in a time of skyrocketing liability and insurance costs.

To get to the Mt Rainier Scenic Railroad, drive to Mineral on Highway 7 about 14 miles north of Morton. Once there, turn left from Mineral Hill Road, or go straight on Front St. (This is the road that passes the Lions Club campground.). There are some signs pointing the way, and we were glad that we were familiar with the area. About a mile north of Mineral, the train will be in an open meadow on your left. You can buy tickets on site, online or at the station in Elbe off of Highway 7. Adult tickets are $20 with seniors and military receiving a discount. Kids are $15.

Mt. Rainier Scenic Railroad locomotive #17 is the main power for weekend scenic and historic excursions out of Mineral.

The mix of riders on the train was intriguing! Young families with children, groups of adults and senior citizens not to mention tourists from all over the world that stumbled on to a little piece of Americana in Eastern Lewis County. What is important is that the fares continue preservation of a bygone era display. Not your average weekend adventure!

Scenes from the “Pretty Boy Fire”

2008-07-14T21:03:00.000-07:00

The media is full of major wildfires these days and sure, millions of people live in places that are affected by smoke or adjacent to actual flames, but by far, the majority of all forest fires are small pieces of nothing incidents.

A firefighter wets down a "hot spot" on the "Pretty Boy Fire". Mt Rainier looms in the background.

Take for instance, the “Pretty Boy Fire” in Eastern Lewis County today. The IC (Incident Commander) arrived on scene and saw flames. This was a first for her. She has been quarantined in a wet part the Washington coastal foothills where the most excitement in her firefighting career has been extinguishing warm dirt. She received a career boost as she climbed the ladder of experience in wildland firefighting. It was all good.

A vast number of wildfires are small and insignificant. In the ranks of wildland firefighting, somebody has to fight those, and who says that school is not in session?

My New Camera

2008-07-13T09:34:00.000-07:00

About three weeks ago, I bought my first major camera. The newspaper has been supplying me enough photography business that I thought it would not only be a good business investment, but I really wanted one!

I bought a Canon Xti Rebel body and then purchased a Tamron 28-300mm zoom lens. It is far more complicated than I thought to run. But I am beginning to learn a few tricks. My first photos were embarrassingly washed-out in the backgrounds.

The jury is still out on the lens. I have not had much time to put it on a tri-pod and play with the longer zoom lengths or exposures.

One thing I can't do is set the camera on automatic. The background will wash out. I am turning back the aperture a couple of spots and I get true colors.

I still have quite a bit to learn regarding depth of field. The one thing that I have not figured out how to do is take photos of flowers and such. I don't believe this lens will allow it. I suppose that I will be in the market for a wide-angle 28mm lens soon.

The photos are from a newspaper job yesterday at Toledo Cheese Days.

Packwood Lake is NOW a Wilderness Icon

2008-07-12T07:53:00.000-07:00

When you think of the words, Packwood Lake, you have to think “icon“. It is a local icon, just like the iconic photo of little Angus Island and the beautiful pure waters of the lake itself. I visited Packwood Lake over the 4th of July weekend and enjoyed my stay thoroughly. When I arrived there were about 25 cars in the parking lot, 4.5 miles distant from the lake itself on what I thought would be one of the busiest weekends of the year. As I hiked in, I met family after family who were there just for a day hike. They accounted for almost half the visitors that day.

Agnus Island on Packwood Lake is associated with in a most unusual fashion (like Wizard Island at Crater Lake in Oregon), the first-time memories of a lot of visitors to Packwood Lake.

The rest found campsites among the lakes 15 to 20 “dispersed” sites. Of course you can’t just drive in. Most pack their materials on their back like me, but I suspect a few took advantage of the “other” route.

There are actually two trails leading to the lake. Both are about 4.5 miles long. The hiker’s trail is the high road. A modestly undulating, gentle trail that leads the hiker behind the old ranger station at the north end of the lake. The low road is the remnants of the old right of way that led vehicles to the old Packwood Lake Resort now open to all kinds of traffic including ATVs and motorcycles. The lower road is still a considerable bone of contention with locals. It was washed out, never to be reopened by the U.S. Forest Service causing the demise of a legendary resort. Perhaps a few haul their gear in on the right of way that is now open to ATVs, but there is no reason to be judgmental.

Every campsite available has a high quality view of the lake!

To get to Packwood Lake, take Highway 12 and then turn right on Snyder Road and drive to the end (about 5 miles) where the U.S. Forest Service maintains a large parking lot. You will need a federal parking pass (Northwest Forest Pass or equivalent).
About 1/2 mile into the trail, I saw my first blooming Beargrass of the season!

I was warned that spending the night on the shores of Packwood Lake could be a noisy affair. I was pleasantly surprised to find nothing but respect for the landscape in hushed tones. Only the sound of children playing around the shores of a lake even remotely sounded disrespectful of the environment.
Playing with the timer on my camera....

For hikers of a more hard core nature, Packwood Lake is a good jump-off location for other Goat Rocks Wilderness adventures once the snow melts away. The 78 trail continues to the east where you can pass Lost Lake and the lovely little Lost Hat Lake on your way to the Clear Lost Trailhead at Highway 12 near White Pass itself or the Clear Fork Trailhead at the terminus of the USFS 46 road. It would make of an excellent two night, three day back packing adventure. I would suggest starting in the east and working back towards Packwood Lake for more moderate elevation loss and gain.
If you continue on the 78 trail above Packwood Lake, a steady climb puts you at little Mosquito lake. On this trip, this was the end of the line due to snow.

By traversing the 81 trail (Upper Lakes) a hiker can traverse to the top of the “Packwood Saddle” and have a host of choices before them. They could make about a 16 mile loop by returning to Packwood Lake via Chimney Rock and the 78 trail, or they could pass the dreaded glacier crossing at Elk Pass and hike into the heart of the Goat Rocks high country.

Regardless of your reason to visit Packwood Lake, it will clearly fill your senses with beauty and perhaps emotions that you had not felt in a while. I know I found my solo mind hard at work enjoying the scents and coming up with new philosophical expressions inspired by a piece of iconic wilderness.

Meet the Newest Member of Our Family

2008-07-08T20:58:00.001-07:00

This guy's name is "Granite". Our family has a love afair with life as we know it.

The Goat Creek Trail adds to my Frustration

2008-07-06T18:09:00.000-07:00

I don't have the same vigor when hiking a trail a second time and such was the case when I returned to the Goat Creek Trail #205. I had been there once last year ad was turned around by a massive downed tree. I was there earlier this season only to be turned around by snow. Yesterday and still today, I am determined to see as much of this trail as I can.

I started late and finished late. I arrived at about 1:30pm and returned to my car at about 6:30pm. I took the Goat Creek Trail #205 and made it about 4 miles to the 3500 foot level before losing the trail in snow. By far, the highlight of the trail is “Cathedral Falls”, but there many unnamed, waterfalls joining the flow towards the Cowlitz River. I was hoping to get to Vanson Lake or at least the top of the ridge itself.

Cathedral Falls is the most impressive point in the trail that I have found so far.

The trail is usually streamside through mature forest and is in excellent condition until it gets into the snow. Much of the forest was burned in the last hundred years or so, but a mosaic of much larger, very impressive trees exist.

This is a low budget trail and there is a lot of water in the creeks. There are no bridges or engineering to help hikers across the streams it crosses. There is about a 300 meter section of the trail where I just took off my boots and went barefoot to save them from becoming inundated with water. It is a good hike for a hot day!

Here are a couple of artful photos of Cathederal Falls.

Pacific Corp Restricts Yale Lake Shoreline

2008-07-05T08:19:00.000-07:00

Due to recent events, Pacific Corp has closed 12 miles of Yale Lake Shoreline to motorized vehicles and camping due to a series of unfortunate events. The road was originally operated by International Paper but has become an area for dispersed camping. Recently, behavior in the area has included arson, fighting and a well documented illegal use of firearms. A man was allegedly firing a weapon towards a legitimate campground on the opposite shore that sent campers diving for cover.
Pacific Corp also states that wildlife habitat was being damage by the unmanaged recreation. The company’s long term plan is to build a non-motorized trail even though a group of Cougar ORV enthusiasts are lobbying to use it as well.
The area will still be open to day use activities which would include hiking, boating or biking is still permitted.

Didn't I just talk about this kind of behavior?

Dispersed Camping is Available in the National Forests

2008-07-05T08:06:00.000-07:00

It used to be a part of the lifestyle in Southwestern Washington. Large timberland owners managed much of the recreational land, and allowed camping. Along many of our region’s most famous rivers, families could pull off the pavement and camp next to the stream. It was one of the few places that campers could set up without hiking into the backcountry.

The practice has largely stopped along many rivers and streams as large land owners began to restrict camping due to resource damage and occasionally vandalism among other issues. In the National Forests, access is freely allowed in most areas.

Dispersed camping (read, camping anywhere you want) outside of a campground is allowed in the national forests unless there is signage that indicates otherwise. It is the step between a developed campground and backpacking. Humans however are drawn to water so most of the most notable dispersed camping areas in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest are along the Cispus, Lewis and Green Rivers south of Randle and Skate Creek between Packwood and Ashford.

We stumbled onto a beautiful spot along the Cispus River underneath Juniper Peak.

With campsites priced at $15 or more per night in most Forest Service or Park Service campgrounds, many people choose to “rough it” without water or bathroom facilities. There are extra responsibilities and skills that are necessary for dispersed camping. It is important that campers recognize and choose sites that are already “set-up” for camping rather than clear space, build a new fire ring and disturb more ground. That also includes leaving vehicles on barren ground and doing everything possible to not pollute lakes, creeks and rivers.

Campgrounds are carefully planned, regulated and maintained. They limit the number of camping locations closest to the local creek or river. Unless you camp on weekdays, the chances of you occupying some of this prime camping real estate, is fairly remote. It seems that there is always someone that never works and has the most enjoyable locations. Dispersed locations and a little luck can get you some of the best scenic locations on the forest.

Unfortunately, there can be an adversarial relationship between dispersed campers and their neighbors. With little enforcement around by camp hosts or rangers, behavior and ethics can be a little lax. Every spring, a group of Packwood area residents and outdoor enthusiasts pick up tons of garbage left by campers along Skate Creek Road.

My boys and I have a great dispersed location on Nason Creek in the Wenatchee National Forest near Steven's Pass. It has a beach and a great view of the tracks.

My boys and I share a very popular dispersed location on the Wenatchee National Forest near Levenworth with scores of faceless other visitors. We tend to be there on weeknights and most dispersed spots are busiest on weekends and holidays. Once last summer, we were awoken by a couple of young men looking for their friend at about 1:30am. I pointed to an location upstream a couple of miles where we had been hearing loud music all afternoon and evening. Again, the ethics of a few dispersed campers are not up to your standard forest user.

A campfire can be another variable. In almost all seasons in this state, you are allowed a fire in a developed campground. In undeveloped locations, campfires are tolerated, often restricted during fire season, or not allowed at all, even if there is what appears to be a safe fire pit. For my boys this is a deal breaker in the debate where we camp. Dispersed campers must know and obey the regulations. Our favorite spot is often marked with a fairly clear statement posted on one of the trees; No Campfires. In many cases, it is a gray area. Campers need to have an understanding of the true fire danger.

My boys building an access bridge with "resources" left behind by other campers.

In all, dispersed camping requires more skill in addition to a determination of the camper to allow the lightest impact possible. It is a wonderful opportunity, but everyone must realize that it is not something we can take for granted. With Forest Service budgets going in the tank and maintenance and enforcement at an absolute minimum, it wouldn’t surprise me to see dispersed camping become an activity of the past, just because a small percentage have poor ethics about how they treat their federal lands. Here in Southwest Washington, we watched private landowners do it over the last two decades. Let’s not give the feds reason to even think about it!

Not Every Outdoor Experience Goes Well

2008-06-19T06:31:00.000-07:00

Sometimes you are just better off staying home. OK, maybe it wasn’t that bad, but it took me a while to digest the disappointment. Almost nothing, not even the weather cooperated with my attempt to get to the top of Mt. Ellinor.

Yes, that is the mountain that has received a lot of bad press over the last month. A group of three were injured in late May during a glissade (sliding down a mountain on your butt). A week later, a 33 year old woman from Centralia slipped, fell and began an uncontrolled slide down the “chute”.

With all the attention the mountain had been receiving lately, it was still hard to tell if one could hike to the top and back without an ice ax. Many hikers climb Mount St. Helens just for the fun of glissading down the shoot adjacent to Monitor Ridge. That didn’t mean you had to donate your butt to the mountain, you also have a choice to ease your way down the andisite boulders.

The question I couldn’t answer about Mt. Ellinor was if there an option to come back down the mountain without an ice ax and the ability to self arrest (stop)? There was almost no information available on the internet. It was clearly one of those times I would have to learn in person. So with a forecast of breaking clouds in the afternoon, I headed for the mountain in the southeast Olympic Range with the expectation of have a rough, physical day. I went without family members expecting to join others along the way.

The lower trail is very handsome and snow free.

To get there, drive to Hoodsport and take SR119 8 miles passed Lake Cushman to Forest Road 24 and turn right. The way to Mt. Ellinor is well marked. Take a left on FS 2419 and drive as far as you dare. I would suggest going only as far as the lower trailhead. The road deteriorates to the point where only those with ice in the veins want to continue. As it was, I drove as far as I could, turned my car to face down hill and hiked to the upper trailhead when a large part of the road separated into a canyon below. In hindsight, it was the one good choice I made this day.

A well used path was blazed in the snow until I got to the base of the "chute".

All was going well until I reached about 5,000 feet. The snow became very deep and while going uphill was fairly easy, the downhill trip among the trees was going to be a challenge. And the forecast? Those clearing skies that were going to give me an amazing early evening view sitting along side mountain goats never came. At 5,100 feet, I scoped the landscape with my 30 meter visibility looking for a route that wouldn’t require the use of an ice ax.

The view up Mt. Ellinor at the base of the "chute".

It wasn’t worth it. I turned around and completed the one good choice of the day. Since I hiked to the upper trailhead, I was going to be able to complete a loop of about six miles down to the lower trailhead and then back up the road to my car. The last part of the loop went through some wonderful old growth timber, but most of the setting featured clear cuts and fire scars with a mostly cloudy, shrouded view of the Hood Inlet and the eastern slopes of the Olympics.

So here is the information that I really needed. There is a summit trail around the south side of the mountain that was still buried under snow. It is for experienced hikers (read, fearless of heights) even during the best of weather conditions. During the winter, climbers head straight up the chute, an avalanche path on the east face of the peak. It is a route reserved for those with basic winter mountaineering skills and the aforementioned ice ax and the ability to self arrest.

For me, Mt. Ellinor will wait for another day either later in the summer or with an ice ax at my side.

Not Surprisingly, Light Rail is Fun!

2008-06-18T21:21:00.000-07:00

Photo by Kyle Pohll

My boys and I found ourselves in Portland on Sunday. We were visiting my father-in-law who suffered an aneurism last month. His recover is very slow, and my wife wanted to spend an extended amount of time with him. After about an hour, the boys and I decided to explore the mass-transportation system of Portland.

It seemed like forever before I felt confident enough to actually feed money to a machine for the ability to ride the MAX trains. The concept of copying the actions of others seemed like a good plan, but it appears that most Portlanders know exactly what to do or have the system in their pocket. It may be literal as many folks had one of a variety of passes.

Eventually, I settled in on an all day ticket for $4.25 ($12.75 for the three of us). Man, that has got to be better than a movie for the boys and I! As we got on, and started watching people and the closer we got to the Rose Quarter we got, the more interesting the people watching became. As we crossed the Willamette River into downtown, the variety of people became very apparent. For a couple of boys from a small town, I could just hear what was going through their minds as hair was often more colorful than clothes.

Downtown Portland's Pioneer Square was just one of the beautiful parts of the city.

We rode the MAX as far west as the Sunset Station in Beaverton. The route includes a tunnel that must be about 4 miles long. About halfway through the bore is the subway stop at the Washington Park Zoo. We then climbed aboard a “Blue Line train” to Gresham on the far east end of the metro area.

A MAX train pulls into the Sunset Station in Beaverton. Photo by Kyle Pohll

It is clear that mass transit is going to be a significant part of our future. Many people in metropolitan areas currently enjoy the convenience, but those in rural areas need to realize that cars are not life. If only local governments would start realizing the need is not just in the city anymore.

The Tatoosh Wilderness

2008-06-17T21:22:00.000-07:00

I was working out in Packwood yesterday and found an unobstructed angle to take a profile photo of the west side of the Tatoosh Wilderness area. It just made me that much more anxious for the snow to melt out!

The view from the top of Tatoosh Peak looking towards the southwest.

One of my favorite wilderness areas is the small Tatoosh area just north of the Goat Rocks Wilderness. It is basically a ridge between the Butter Creek and Muddy Fork of the Cowlitz River. The south trailhead begins at the base of Butter Peak and passes just to the right of the peak itself. It is a tough climb of about three miles. You drop modestly to Bum Springs before climbing slowly along the slopes of southern Tatoosh Peak and over a small pass (you can see the trail on the photo now).

The trail continues to a point where it meets the northern trail out of Butter Creek Canyon. The junction is a bout a mile from the Tatoosh Lakes themselves.

Tatoosh Lake fill a glacial canyon among the Tatoosh Peaks.

It is a fantastic wilderness despite being just a dot on a map!

Give Back by Volunteering to Maintain Trails

2008-06-09T09:05:00.000-07:00

Ask Henry Panter what is favorite trail is and he will tell you that the Hummocks, a 2.5 mile loop on the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument is close to the top. “It is constantly changing” he said. Panter was leading a group of 10 volunteers from the Washington Trails Association in making some repairs on the dramatically altered trail.

A large slide split this portion of the Hummocks trail in two.

For my part, it had been about a year since I had been on the trail as an employee of the U.S. Forest Service, and on this day, I didn’t even recognize large portions of the trail. In early 2007, myself and several others flagged a reroute that was designed after the November storms of 2006 blew out a key portion of the right of way. Another section slid away this year and a beaver has built a dam in the last year that submerged two other sections of the path.

A new beaver dam was displacing the trail with high water.

Because the beaver took out the trail with a rising level of water, a new 50 foot section of trail was constructed higher on the slope.

Washington Trails Association (WTA) along with other groups like the Lewis County Backcountry Horsemen volunteer thousands of hours each year to fix storm damage on state and federal trails each summer. Panter, a mechanic from Stevenson considers himself a “professional volunteer” and has put in nearly 200 days of volunteer time on trails over the last decade. The groups other leader, Kevin Koski from Port Orchard has contributed 87 days since 1999. WTA began volunteer trail work in 1993 with a little over 800 hours and in 2007, over 80,000 hours of time was donated to trails in the state.

The two guides volunteer in doing what used to be the jobs of seasonal workers for the U.S. Forest Service, but in this age of declining budgets, volunteers are being called upon to take care of trails on federal lands.

WTA set up numerous volunteer parties over the weekend of June 7th (National Trails Day) and 8th all over the state. On this morning, 8 strangers were brought together by Panter and Koski to solve issues created by the ever changing Hummocks Trail.

Kevin Koski (left) and Henry Panter introduce the basic tools of trail repair and maintenance to a team of volunteer workers on Sunday.

The team of volunteers were introduced to a handful of tools employed in trail maintenance and then shown some basic techniques in trail design. The first lesson was the design and use of water bars to prevent trails from becoming small creeks. After all, water is the number one enemy of a trail. Later the crew built a short reroute to elevate the trail above a rising beaver ponds and then a rock structure that allowed hikers to step over s small stream without getting their boots wet or damaging the wetland. The most basic action was “grubbing” or moving soil to allow for proper drainage off of the trail.

My son Jared (on the left) and Nalini Nadkami from Olympia "grub" to create a drainage bar.

My son Jared is one of the first to test out an elevated step-crossing of a small drainage.

Among the group of volunteers were two Evergreen State College Instructors, a long-time employee (34 years) of the National Park Service and two volunteers for the Mount. St. Helens institute not to mention myself and my hard working 10 year old son. It should be noted that almost to a person, there was almost no experience in building or maintaining trails outside of our two leaders.

For their troubles and time, each volunteer was given a free pass to use forest service recreation areas (worth $5). After two passes are collected, they can be traded in for a free annual pass (worth $30). After 5 days of volunteer work, WTA gives you your own personalized helmet to use on future projects. Seldom does a week go by in the summer when there are not several work parties occurring all over the state. If you are interested, check the WTA site, but hurry. Work party space is limited and it goes fast!

Our group of volunteers took a moment to take in the scenery of the Toutle River and the volcanic landscape.

I was motivated to join this group because in many places I have hiked this year, fresh work on the trails had been completed. Under my breath I have said "thank you", but it occurred to me that guilt was a feeling erased by effort. It struck me funny that there was no one from Lewis or Cowlitz County (besides myself and my son) to help maintain one of our backyard trails. Which leads me to ask, what are you doing next weekend? Care to grub a little?

Gay Pride Demonstration at Centralia College Evokes Predictable Reaction

2008-06-08T06:38:00.000-07:00

Centralia College celebrated "Gay-Pride" week and the local community reacted in fairly predictable fashion. In reality, it was the local newspaper that showed the community what was happening on campus in a normally very conservative community.

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Well, what a series of events huh? I am actually proud of our little college forging ahead with some cultural events that may seem a little contrary to the local community. And leave it to The Chronicle to foster what I see as a mob mentality. Its photographers and editors presented a great package that put the subject over the top as some have stated here. Just like last week’s local tribute to hip-hop that made so many of us wheel around and go what-up?, Here we are talking about yet another community that is in our midst, but will bring out the worst in the larger community.

I remember one time when I was involved in a stage production. There in front of hundreds of audience members, I was able to pull off a character that most people could only dream of doing. It was exciting to say the least! I was able to let go of fears and fantasize about being someone I was not and had hundreds of people supporting my efforts to do so. Here you have people trying to portray the fun, perhaps stereotypical side of them that they have to hide 99% of the time in front of an audience that supports them. In real life they may have to be someone that they are not and now they get a chance to show it. They finally get into costume, get an audience in front of them and enjoy presenting to those that were present and supportive. I suspect that none of us in this discussion chose to go take in the spectacle. None of us bought tickets to this production. The Chronicle however, took us there and presented perhaps the most extreme look at the behaviors that took place on a usually sleepy campus.

Now look at our reaction. Seems pretty silly to me, and it was all brought to you by The Chronicle. Journalism at its best, worst or somewhere in between? Pretty clever if you ask me.

Mudding and ORV Discussion Begins

2008-06-05T21:15:00.000-07:00

The following is a discussion about mudding and ORV (off road vehicle) use in open areas and public lands in Washington between myself and "Town Crier" Writer Paula Collucci. Much is made of the problems by wheeled vehicles in backcountry areas. Whether the action is sanctioned or not, the damage will be in effect for 20 to 40 years in Western Washington and potentially a hundred years on the east side.

Clearly though, humans need to limit their impact and footprint when visiting someone else’s home. This particular hobby does little to respect those ethics.

On the other hand, I feel for the organized recreational groups in this state. As it stands, there are only 9 public ORV sites in all of Washington. Four of them are in Western Washington where the majority of the population lives. There are no official, public ORV sites in Southwestern Washington.

Of the 9 public parks, 4 of them are on DNR lands, 3 are U.S. Forest Service facilities, one is operated by Washington State Parks and one is operated by Grant County.

One of the most successful programs is being operated at Tayhua near Bremerton. A unique permit system is in place where permitees must have a volunteer hour for each participant in a given event.

DNR is finding that some trails have been developed without their consent. As a form of amnesty is granted in many cases when DNR finds illegal trails on their lands. It is at that time when a decision is made whether the trail is an appropriate location. At that point, if a group of enthusiasts are willing to work on the maintenance of the trail, it may be granted the user’s deed. Below is an excerpt from the Washington State 4x4 Symposium Summary

The Olympic Region is working hard to identify existing user-built trails on state trust lands, and determine which trails are in acceptable locations with acceptable use. Region staff work with interested groups to get an adopt-a-trail agreement signed and volunteer work scheduled to bring the trail to appropriate trail standards – or to close the trail. DNR works with the volunteers to set up an appropriate monitoring and maintenance schedule.

To be continued....

Private Land Owners Cutting off Public Treasures

2008-06-05T19:55:00.000-07:00

Perhaps I should be totally grateful that the Cape Horn Trail even has a chance to become an official reality. Sure, the U.S. Forest Service wants to water the experience down by rerouting the trail away from the Cape Horn waterfall among other choices. The reason of course is that it passes by a Peregrine Falcon nest just adjacent to the falls themselves; a bird that nests under bridges in the City of Portland.

By far, the most disappointing realization was that private landowners are selfishly keeping the rest of the world from special places. Having traveled modestly, this is probably a common problem, but having grown up in Oregon where special places are uniquely public, the climate here in Washington uniquely supports the landowner.

The most striking example that I have found is a location where the Skykomish River drops its full flow over about a 40 foot waterfall near Index. All access to view the spectacle is on private land.

Such is the case at the base of Cape Horn on the Columbia River. A fantastic basalt rock formation lies at the bottom of the cliff. As it happens, the railroad tracks exit a tunnel and not too long ago, railroad enthusiasts could access the east portal for an amazing photograph.

Photo by Ted Curphy (used with permission)

No longer. A gate blockades the public from the river’s shore and barely allows access to the Cape Horn Trail. It seems that one mistake and the total use of the Cape Horn Trail could be derailed by this landowner.

It seems to me that the even the sign that is posted at the trailhead is illegal. Sure, they could block use of the 50 yard portion of the trail that is on private land. I can even live with the request not to park along the side of cape Horn Road, but to say that nobody can drive to the trailhead on a public road and pick up or drop off a passenger at the trailhead is outrageous.

I wish you guys could have seen the look on my son's face when our plans to eat our packed lunch within view of the tracks and the river so that we could watch a train exit the fabled Cape Horn Tunnel. Instead, we had to settle for lunch on a public road just outside of the private gates that block our access to a very famous portion of a scenic Columbia River. It seemed like a less than fitting protest for such an unjust exclusion.

Shhh...We Hiked Cape Horn

2008-06-02T20:30:00.000-07:00

A few weeks ago, while hiking in the Beacon Rock area of the Columbia Gorge, my boys and I came upon a trail at the base Cape Horn that sparked my curiosity. As it turns out, we actually hiked a small part of it near Highway 14 later that afternoon. While there, I determined to return for further explorations.

After doing some research online, I discovered that there was nearly an 8 mile loop available to explore on the Washington side of the gorge. Unfortunately, the trail is still in a clandestine form after near a decade of work by an army of volunteers, unsanctioned by the U.S. Forest Service. Friends of the Columbia Gorge spent 1.5 million for a key piece of private land near Pioneer Point that helped make a true loop trail possible. Most of the trail is on Forest Service lands, but in several locations, delicate agreements with private land owners and a mile stretch on a Skamania County roadway make passage for hikers possible.

Clouds and fog prevented us from seeing the view at Pioneer Point, the highest location on the trail. The fog in the trees made for a great photo.

On many locations along the trail, perches on top of basaltic cliffs create dramatic views if not a fear of heights.

The trail is not for the geographically challenged, or the geologically skittish (fear of heights). In several locations, the trail is not well marked and a little confusing, but I was fortunate to have a map and a well-used description of the trail’s route with me. In many locations, the trail parallels tall basaltic cliffs that cause a case or two of the willies. Those with weak ankles need not apply either. Large scree is a staple on the tread of the lower portion of the loop.

Larkspur were the most common and striking bloom along the trail.

One piece of real-world advice that I would give is to take the trail from the parking area in a counter clock-wise direction so you head uphill initially and then descend to a couple of hundred feet above the Columbia River itself. The opposite route would result in a semi-sadistic, 1,400 feet climb up one of the highest points in the Gorge. As it is, except for the initial climb up to Pioneer Point, the only other significant uphill grade is a gentle walk up Cape Horn Road back to the original starting point.

Columbine was a common sight along the trail.

There are many highlights on the trail including views from Pioneer Point, and the ability to walk behind the Cape Horn waterfall but the pure exhilaration of the rugged trail south of Highway 14 topped my personal list.

Cape Horn Falls is the final highlight in a counter clockwise hike on the trail.

In all, the route took us about 5 hours to complete. I can not emphasize the importance of research on this route. On a nicer day, this would have qualified as one of my two top hikes this summer.

The best resource that I found on the trail is at http://www.hikingupward.com/WSP/CapeHorn/

The Lena Lake Experience

2008-05-19T06:48:00.001-07:00

Historically, I have not been a fan of the Olympics. It is true that I took my family there in 2006 and spent three days exploring the “exterior” of the peninsula. We visited Hurricane Ridge, Sol Duc Falls and the Hoe Rain Forest, but the experience of looking out over the range never intrigued me to the point of saying “I have to go out there”.

Bring on the winter of 07-08 and the massive snows of which I have had a love/hate relationship and the desperation to find quality, early season, yet snow-free trails. For this purpose, I should mention that I follow a couple of websites, most notably Washington Trails Association and to a lesser extent, Northwest Hiker where participants post information and photos about the hikes that they have taken. Still being a newbie to Washington, I read with great interest and have map for assistance in finding those hidden spots close to Lewis County.

Late last week, I noticed a name that kept coming up. I read the “hike reports” and checked the map. It was going to be right on the edge of the 2 hour drive from the local area. I searched trip reports from years passed looking for photos. Not too impressive, but what choice did I have. The boys and I got up early, grabbed a friend and headed towards Lena Lake.

Getting to Lena Lake means driving north to Olympia and then taking Highway 101 by Shelton and Hoodsport. 14.2 miles north of Hoodsport, take a left on Forest Road #25 and drive for about 7.5 miles. It is a well used trailhead and marked visibly from Highway 101. You will need a Northwest Forest Pass to park at the trailhead.

The trail to the lake climbs about 1000 feet in the first 2 miles, but it is really a rather moderate hike. The last mile rises a net elevation of 300 feet as you reach the Lena Lake Basin. The trail was in excellent condition for an early season hike until you reach the northern end of the lake. From there, the elements still had the upper hand with downed trees and on this weekend, flooding.

A group of boy scouts from Issaquah reported that the water rose enough to have them move uphill from the lakeshore on Saturday night. When they got up the next morning, their former tent site was completely under water.

Just in the two hours we were there, the water level rose about 6 inches and covered the trail on the north side of the lake near the East Fork of Lena Creek where you can access the falls.

In this photo, salal growing at the base of a cedar is covered by the rising water level. I would say several to six feet based on locations of trees.

I looked all over the web and there was nary a reference to the falls! I can see where most of the day hikers stopped at the viewpoint of the lake on the southwest bluff, but I urge visitors to continue on to at least the East Fork of Lena Creek's confluence into the lake itself. What a great spot to end a great hike on a day when the water was roaring with snow melt.

Temperatures climbed rapidly and snows melted quickly in the higher elevations. Water in the lake was rising fast and covered the trail. The upper bridge crossing at Lena Creek resulted in wet shoes and boots just to access the bridge. The increased flow meant something very special at the confluence of the East Fork Lena Creek and the lake. At that location, the creek drops about 90 feet and empties into the lake. Next time I go back, it will probably be so mundane with less water flow!

The aforementioned photos that I had observed of Lena Lake were few and far between. More importantly, they didn’t do the lake justice. The lake and the basin is stunning. As we crossed a trail junction to Upper Lena Lake or stopped well short of “The Brothers”, it was all my boys could do to keep me from going farther. In my mind I couldn’t help but say to myself, “I’ll be back“!